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Hattie
Loughary's Oregon Trail Diary Manuscript
NOTES OF TRAVEL FROM DANVILLE, DES MOINES COUNTRY, IOWA
to
DALLAS, POLK COUNTY, OREGON
March 30th to September 3rd 1864
by
MRS. H. A. LOUGHARY
Hattie's
original notes were probably copied into manuscript format after arriving
in Oregon. Several hand made copies were made over the years, and some
of these eventually photocopied. A typewritten copy was made by Mildred
Loughary around 1960 and also photocopied. The present copy was re-typed
into WordPerfect checking both formats for issues of accuracy. See a companion
piece, "Hattie's Diary...the story behind its discovery" also in
Loughary Stories.
March 30th We left out old home, and dear friends amidst
sighs, & good-byes with many a "wish you a safe journey",
etc. About one mile from home, our ox team went into a mud hole and broke
a log-chain, which was an introduction to the trials of a trip across
the Plaines. But his was the "Alpha and Omega" of breaking during
he whole tripl We travel on in silence to N. London. Stopped at Bro. Otto's.
I passed away the evening in silence, thinking of the tender chords that
had so recently been broken, and that perhaps forever.
March 31st Noon at Mt. Pleasant, where we saw E. Alter and J. Ritner.
Purchased a few articles and hastened on, expecting to reach our brothers
that night, but the muddy roads prevented us. So we "pitched tent",
ate supper and slept on the ground comfortable.
April 1st Went 4 miles to our brothers and stopped until
Saturday morning .
April 2nd Were again compelled to bid adieu to dear friends and relatives,
who were so reluctant to part with us. But we must do it. The morning
was cold and cloudy, but he roads improving. Thence, to Fairfield. Saw
Rev. Williams who swished us to give him a description of Oregon. Thence
to a creek and camped by its bank. It being Saturday we expected to remain
over Sunday, but when the morning came the rain
April 3rd commenced, which increased so that at noon the creek was so
swollen that we found we could to cross by morning, and in consideration
of which, we went to Agency City through a drenching rain. The place was
so deluged, and still raining. We were compelled to put up at a tavern.
We ate our"goul", slept on a wet bar-room floor on our own bedding,
fed our own grain, and paid $4.75.
April 4th Still raining, but we could not stand hotel prices for such
fare, so we moved on to Ottumwa. Meanwhile, the rain had ceased. Noon,
crossed the Des Moines River, and cast a long and lingering look–Thence
15 miles to "Fathers" where we stopped until Saturday, the weather
being so disagreeable and roads so muddy.
April 9th Once more kindred ties were broken. And we hastened away from
our parental home glad that we had got beyond the reach of sad good-byes.
Afternoon, pass Albia, county seat of Monroe; a very nice place. Three
meeting houses, a very beautiful court house and P. square. Thence a few
miles further and camped in an oak thicket. Wind blowing quite cold.
April 10th Sunday. Having no grain for our stock, were compelled to pull
out, going in a northwesterly course to a little village Bremer. Thence
6 miles further. Marysville, a small lace on a creek which was so swollen
by the recent rains as to make crossing quite difficult. Came very near
upsetting one wagon in the stream. 2 miles further found plenty of corn
and oats. Camped in the rear of a large M.E. Meeting house, which reminded
us of the Sabbath.
April 11th Started out early. 8 0'clock commenced raining. Road very
muddy and rough. Noon at English Creek over which was a high narrow bride
without bannisters. The boards being wet, our cattle slipped and refused
to cross. They finally ventured and fell off, but did not hurt them. Had
to unyoke our oxen and lead them over, drawing the wagon by hand. Afternoon,
passed Knoxville, country seat of Marion. Situated in an eminence beautifully
surrounded with large cottonwood trees. 4 meeting houses, a beautiful
court house, and a very large Public S. house. This is the prettiest country
that we have seen. Went 2 miles and camped on White-Breast, over which
was a bridge nearly washed away by the recent flood. we told not to cross.
April 12th Did cross the bridge single file Again. . Cool and pleasant.
Are now in Warren County, beautiful farming land, but improvements spoor.
Dinner in fence corner, and pencil a few items on a fence rail. Quite
cool, but road improving rapidly. Afternoon, passed Pleasantville where
the "Small Pox" was said to be raging. "A dead stillness
reigned within." We were told not to go through the village, but
we went through without so much as a smell of the small pox upon our garments.
Then going 6 miles to Sandyville, bought corn for 40 cents. Timber rather
scarce, but coal in abundance.
April 14th Very cold fro the season, but good for traveling. Pass thru
St. Charles, thence to and thru a sketch of timber to a creek, and noon.
Plenty of logs for tables.
April 15th Snowed last night. But were so snugly sleeping in our little
domicile as not to be aware of it until morning. 3 miles to Wintersett.
The most flourishing place that we have seen since leaving Mt. Pleasant.
Here we met with W. W. Eggleston, pastor of the Baptist church in that
place. Who very gladly received us, loading us with papers to date which
were quite a treat to us. Afternoon go through a large open prairie, wind
blowing very cold, some snow. Reach the timber about 4.
April 16th Very pleasant again. Travel all day through an open
prairie. Not a tree, house or shrub visible. Except two small villages
of ½ dozen houses huddled together where we found plenty of grain
to exchange for plenty of "greenbacks". Hurried on to timber
which we reached by sundown. The creek bottom was doted over with immigrant
wagons.
April 17th Sabbath. Were anxious to rest today, but in order to make
the next point to get grain had to travel until noon. Rested the remainder
of day in our own tent.
April 18th Move out very early, passing through the most thinly settled
portion of the state. Paid 75 cents for frost-bitten corn and glad to
get it at that.
April 19th Reach Lewis and Cass Co. Here we laid in a supply of flour
for the trip at $2.20 c. There is a Baptist church in this place, 2 other
denominations. Here also we intersect the Des Moines Road and Telegraph
line.
April 20th Have traveled 2 days through a desert waste. Mostly large
rolling prairie, very gravelly.
April 21st Go 10 miles to Silver Creek where we expect to wait fro grass
to grow sufficient.
April22nd Mr. L. has gone to Council Bluffs, 16 miles distant from the
"camp". Night, Mr. L. has returned with a letter from our beloved
minister and family, Rev. E. Russ. Never was a letter so gladly received.
Business suspended–every child huddled din the tent together to hear
the news. On opening, out dropped the well known "Photograph"
which created no little sensation. We remain here several days, rambling
through the woods picking a few flowers that are peaking our from their
hiding places. Angling in the silver stream, listening to the sweet songs
of spring
May 1st birds, etc., until we move within 3 miles of the "Bluffs"
on Mosquito Creek. The creek bottom is literally covered with wagons,
which has some resemblance of a large army waiting for orders.
May 2nd Go into town. Broadway, N.Y., couldn't make a greater stir. The
number of wagons has swelled to thousands, and the persons to tens of
thousands. This place is situated at the base of the large "Bluffs"
3 miles from Missouri River. After fully equipping ourselves, we go to
the ferry at noon. Finding our turn to cross would not come until next
day, pitched tent. Here I was taken sick with chill, followed by some
fever.
May 3rd Up early before daylight and take our lace in order to cross
the river. 50 Wagons ahead of us. 8 o'clock, got over. The boat ferries
100 wagons daily. Here we bid adieu to Iowa soil and from Omaha situated
on a high eminence, we cast a lingering look behind us and went 7 miles
and camped on a prairie stream. Still sick, confiscated a rail to warm
water and get super. North wind cold, but we were comfortable.
May 4th Glad to move on. Feel some better this morning. This portion
of Nebraska well improved. Prairie very rolling, good farm houses and
barns with young orchards growing up. Reached Elk Horn at night and camp
for a few days to wait for grass, which grows slowly.
May 5th A large number of wagons here, "waiting for the moving of
the water". The Pawnee Indians are also here. They are a frightful
looking specimen of humanity. They trouble very much, begging. But other
wise, are peaceable. Afternoon commenced raining and continued to Strom
for 3 days. We got well drenched, but just what I needed with fever.
May 7th It was noised through the camp that I had "Snap Pox"–when
there was a general "Skeedaddling", but we were determined to
hood our position until Monday.
May 9th When we again resumed our journey, my health greatly improved
by the rest and frequent shower baths that I h ad taken. Roads very muddy.
Passed Fremont, a young Nebraska village. Bought corn for 90 cents per
bu. Thence to Platte River. While we were pitching our tent a very severe
Strom blew, rained very hard, and hail.
May 10th So cold this morning that we had to move our tent behind a bluff
to avoid the cold wind. Move at 10 o'clock. Meet with the H. Good and
Co. who travel with us that afternoon and camp with us at night at "North
Bend" by the river side. Good grass. The Platte is an uneven stream
in width and depth, having a deep quick sand, and quite swift, making
it wash out the banks in some places and piling up sand in the middle
of the stream at other places, causing water to be always muddy. There
are no rocks in it for 600 miles, and not so m much as a pebble or coarse
sands.
May 11th Moving again, 100 wagons in line today. No companies organized
as yet. Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Michigan, Wisconsin, Nebraska and Kansas
are all represented in this great caravan. Truly we could say, "Westward
the star of empire takes is course". The largest portion are going
to Idaho, others Nevada, Oregon and California.
May 12th On the march again. We are now on the "celebrated plains",
a vast level scope of country on both sides of Platte River. Much wider
on the North side. From 2 to 10 miles of wagons. The Tele-graph line from
Cal. To the Missouri River by way of Salt Lake follows our road to Ft.
Kearney. There it crosses to the south side. We are keeping the north
side. There are small farms in cultivation as far up as Ft. Kearney, where
we can buy corn and hay. Stop at a "Ranche" where a post office
is kept. Heard of General Grant's recent victories.
May 13th Passed Columbus on Loop fork of Platte. Bought corn for $1.25
per bu., cornmeal for $4.00 c. Cross the river which we both ferried and
forded. They put us off in the middle of the stream on a sand bar and
some willow brush, charging us $2.00 per wagon. The remaining part of
the stream was from 2 to 3 feet deep, but after much whipping, yelling,
and splashing, all got over safely, and ate dinner in the shade of our
wagons. Wood is scarce, we gather sticks and roots all day, and have enough
to cook supper and breakfast in our small stove. Afternoon, passed a lonely
little grave by the side of the road, with a rough board marked "H.H.D.".
I lingered behind a short time to drop a tear of sympathy for this sad
mother who left it there.
May 14th On the March a gain. Weather pleasant, roads good. Some flowers
are scattered over the plains.
May 15th Sunday, are resting our stock, but not otherwise observing the
Sabbath. Some are fishing, some hunting. Others sleeping, cooking, washing,
etc. I took my Bible and strolled up the river side, read a few chapters
in silence. Nothing to break the stillness of the hour but the murmuring
stream. It was then I thought of home, dear friends, and Sabbath privileges,
that I was each day wandering farther from.
May 16th "Strike tents" is the word. Passed two more
graves of the side of the road, which seem to be a mother and child. Oh!
How sad it must be to leave loved ones in such a desert wild with not
a tree or shrub to mark their graves. Grass not good. 17 miles today.
May 17th Still the same old thing, yet something new every day. A few
farms as we near the Ft. No fences owing to scarcity of timber. Wheat
ands oats growing nicely. One of our Co. found his cow in prison this
morning. He had to pay $1.00 for her release. Such is Nebraska! Camp at
Grand Island which is 12 miles wide and 40 ft. long. Platte River twisting
all around it. Being so shallow that our boys wade to it and get wood
which is plenty. Several farms on it. Wheat $1.25 per bus, corn for sale,
plenty of hay made of wild grass.
May 18th Warm and dry. Grass growing slowly. The country somewhat rolling.
Take our stock on the island at night for grass. Saw here, New's Boy,
also S. T. Read, Willhouse, Carpenter & Gladden, from Burlington.
There are a great many snakes on the plain. The most numerous are "Copperheads".
May 19th Very pleasant. All that we could more desire is plenty of grass,
the emigration is so large that the grass is not sufficient yet. Saw today
a village of prairie dogs which are about the size of a mink. They burrow
in the ground, forming thousands of small mounds in which is their humble
dwellings. They came out and barked furiously at us as we passed. Our
boys spent a dozen or more shots but they were to quick to be killed by
bullets. Camp again beside of the Platte.
May 20th Arrived opposite of Ft. Kearney. It being on the south side
and some distance, 3 or 4 miles from the river, we did not see it. We
waited until some or our party went over to the P. C. While there, Co.
Wood received a dispatch that 8 men had been murdered by the Indians the
day before at Cottonwood Springs, some distance up the river. This created
quite a sensation in camp amongst the fearful ones. There were more than
100 or more wagons waiting for companies to organize. It being thought
unsafe to go further in small squads, a general consultation took place
where it was resolved to move 10 miles up the river and camp, and then
on the following morning organize. This was the first "corral"
that we had formed. 33 wagons were driven in a circle placing the tongue
of each under the hind axle of another forming a complete barricade for
our stock. A strong guard placed out. Some were very much alarmed, imagined
they saw the "redskins" peeping over the bluff, while the reflective
ones thought it was as "scarecrow". There were the remains of
an old mud Indian fort in the circle, so the boys thought this a good
opportunity for some fun. So they planted the "Stars and Stripes"
on the old mud fort. A number struck up "Rally Round The Flag"
and at its close, three loud cheers were given for the Red, White, and
Blue by almost 100 voices which echoed from the high bluff on our right,
carrying the sound far away on the vast, plains before us, then dying
away in the stillness or a beautiful moonlight evening, while the flag
floated softly in the breeze. At ll o'clock, all was still and slept soundly.
May 21st Cloudy with appearance of a storm. Organization Co. elected
Dr. Frowell, formerly of Burlington, Iowa, president and C. McAllister
as clerk. Our party numbered 33 wagons, 91 men, besides women and children.
A portion wished to remain here over the Sabbath, but the majority said
no. So about 8 o'clock our long train got in motion. Went 8 or 10 miles
and noon at Elk Creek. About 3 o'clock began to thunder with indications
of a "Platte" storm which some of us feared more than the Indians.
We pushed on to reach the river (having traveled all day across a bank
of the river) but found we could not. Turned off a slough where we found
stock water, but not fit for ourselves. By this time the storm was near.
A general commotion was in camp. Every man, woman, and child was busy
unyoking oxen, unharnessing horses, driving stakes, tightening wagon covers,
correlling stock, and much more we wished to do, but down came the large
drops of rain and hail, when we gladly resorted to our wagons as the only
place of safety, but it proved to be only a mild attack after all. Meanwhile,
night closed in on us, having to go to bead supperless, while the "guard"
drew its oil cloth tightly about him, watching for the Indians who might
take advantage of the darkness to stamped our stock.
May 22nd Sabbath. Had expected to rest, but soon found that there was
no rest for the wicked. Our Capt. Informing us that when we reached the
river or some convenient place, we would stop for the day. 11 o'clock
found plenty of wood, water, grass and stopped when a general overhauling
took place. Washing, mending of clothes, ox yokes and halters, cooking,
playing cards, etc. At night a dance; we read a few chapters, and tried
to make the best we cold of it, but could not realize that it was the
Sabbath.
May 23rd Our company divided, leaving us 14 wagons, Capt. Farwell remaining
with us. We passed some rolling prairie today, abundance of "prickly
peas", also the mountain cactus, one of the most beautiful plants
that I ever saw. The "Piny" and various kinds of flowers, some
resembling our cultivated flowers. Evergreens were on the islands and
bluffs. A hunting party went in search of buffalo and antelope but found
none. The whole country is strewn with carcasses of buffalo which appear
to have perished in the snowstorm of the past winter. Camp opposite a
stage station. Can see the telegraph wire which looks like civilization.
Large trains of immigrants are moving up on the other side of the river.
May 24th Stay in camp today, one of our party has been sick for some
time and as concluded to return home, so they are fitting up an "iron
clad" to ferry him over to take stage home. We improve the time by
washing, baking, etc. I should have mentioned that we laid in a supply
of wood at Elm Creek, there being no more timber fro 200 miles except
a little willow brush. Some of our party neglected to lay in wood and
are in a bad fix.
May 25th On the march again. Travel 18 miles and cap on the same old
Platte. Heard a report that Indians were committing depredations at Pawnee
Sprigs some 18 or 20 miles ahead. A mule train with several hundred head
of loose stock were camped at P. Springs. Two men and 1 lad were out with
the stock. 2 Indians rode up, one having a gun, the other a bow and arrow,
made signs of friendship, then suddenly drew the weapons, killing one
man and severely injuring the other. The boy fired at the Indians, but
did not kill either. This intelligence caused another stir in our camp.
There was a general reloading of guns and revolvers and a strong guard
at night
May 26th Move on again. Made Pawnee Springs. Saw no Indians. A single
white was there, selling whiskey, who was strongly suspicioned as having
part of the recent depredations.
May 27th Passed this morning the grave of the murdered man. His grave
was on banks of canyon creek, neatly buried. A board marked "J.H.
Manning , killed by Indian May 24th, 1864 of Pike Country, Missouri ".
Afternoon some alkali resembling soda was seen. Also saw a mountain rabbit
which is much larger than ours, and the meat tastes like venison.
May 28th Overtook the mule train. The wounded man recovering. No Indians
to be seen. I am writing on the banks of the river which at this point
is 3/4 mile wide. The sun is setting on a beautiful evening. The canary
birds (which a lady has) are singing sweetly. The river rolls by quietly
at my feet and I can scarcely believe that we are in an enemy's land surrounded
with dangers. So far from our loved ones and once loved home.
May 29th Passed over some sand bluffs, winding around some distance,
then coming down to the river again. Passed. P. Smith's train of Mt. Pleasant,
Iowa. Saw some of our acquaintances camp near a temporary well which had
been dug by immigrants. Three trains are here tonight. They are having
a good time generally. Foot racing, jumping, and another dance is to come
off tonight.
May 30th Go over more sand bluffs, the sand from 56 to 8 inches deep.
Some have to double teams, but as we are not heavy loaded, can pass over
easily. At the base of the bluff is a small hill which is covered with
roses, which filled the morning air with their fragrance. We named it
"Rose Hill". Afternoon saw the first " Sioux" Indian.
About 4 o'clock, passed an Indian village. They were a ghastly looking
set of men, half naked women, children entirely naked. They seemed quite
friendly. Came over and looked at us strangely. Night, joined P. Smith's
train. God grass and water.
June 1st Commenced raining. Pushed out early to get another sand
bluff over before the rain. The hills were covered with roses and other
beautiful flowers. Go into camp at 3 o'clock.. Still raining.
June 2nd Still drizzling rain. Some willow brush for fuel, the buffalo
chips too wet to burn. Clears up at noon, started out at 1 o'clock. Our
boys rode out and killed a number of rabbits.
June 3rd Very pleasant again. Grass growing nicely since the r ain. Road
good.
June 4th Saw today a number of immigrant graves. One marked "William
Shaw, killed by accident, May 3rd, 1864".
June 5th Very pleasant. Grass not so good owing to the sand. "Chimney
and court house" have been in sight all day–are still 30 miles
distant, though do not appear to be over a few miles.
June 6th Cool wind blowing from the N. W. Saw some Indian wigwams, where
some renegade white men were living with squaws. Camp opposite the celebrated
rocks. Chimney Rock at a distance, looks like a spire of a large meeting
house. It is 150 ft. high, about 10 ft. wide at the top. The other resembles
a court house with a dome in the centre. Are not solid granite, but a
soapstone. Are on the south side of the river, consequently did not visit
them. Afternoon, Sunday School class in our tent. Sang "Rest for
The Weary".
June 7th Clear and warm. Roads very sandy. Pass the line between Idaho
and Nebraska, and are now in the land of gold. Camp on Raw Hide creek,
where is an Indian agency. The roads are becoming more sandy. Good grass,
but no wood yet. Indian wigwams every few miles. They follow holding our
mocassin, beads, and dressed in skins to exchange for provisions. Come
to timber again and camp 10 miles from Ft. Laramie.
June 9th Start early for the Ft. where we all expect to hear of loved
ones at home. We drag through heavy sand and reach Laramie at 11 o'clock.
The first object that met our view was the "colors" flying over
the fort, which was warmly cheered by our boys. Meanwhile, we threw our
Stars and Stripes to the breeze, which the soldiers in turn raised their
caps to. We felt that we were yet on American soil. After dinner, most
of our party went over to the fort, it also being on the S. side. We waited
until night for our "turn" to come. Many being so anxious for
letters that they offered sums of money to the P.M. to give their letters
out. We should have crossed the fiver here, re-crossing at upper Platte
Bridge, but our Capt. Thought otherwise and missed it badly. We could
have avoided the Black Hills which are very bad, and no grass out on the
hills. Went 3 miles and camped where 1 man had been killed by the Indians
2 days before. 2 others seriously wounded, but all was the result of carelessness.
June 10th Commence climbing the Black Hills. The most novel and picturesque
scenes that we have seen. The road wound around high hills for several
miles, which were covered with cedar and pine trees. Projecting huge rocks
that looked as if they had been driven into the hill sides. The mountain
lily grows seemingly our of the rocks. Various other beautiful flowers
met our eye at every turn. We finally reached quite an eminence, then
must go down a very steep hill. Had to lick 2 or 3 wheels of each wagon.
There was a spring gushing from the hill side, but what was that for hundreds
of thirsty cattle and horse, and as many men, women, and children who
were hourly seeking a few drops of water. We rest a while, then on again,
make another hill, then descend a slop to the river, where we camp. Nothing
for our hungry stock but a few weeds.
June 11th We were aroused at 4 o'clock and started in order to get grass
for our stock. Ascending another slope of the Black Hills. The peaks were
not as high as yesterday. Were sparsely covered with cedar, a little grass
in low spots. Pass the spot where a man had been murdered by Indians.
His grave was by the roadside, his faithful dog refusing to leave the
grave. 8 o'clock found some grass in a canyon and stopped for breakfast.
10 o'clock moved again to the Alder Springs where the train of the murdered
man was camped. The particulars were that a mule team of 4 mules, and
2 men became tired, and he being an old Californian, said there was no
danger and he should stop alone. About sundown, a number of Indians came
suddenly upon them, killing one and severely wounding the other, carrying
off $4.00 in greenbacks and $8.00 in gold, all the mules and valuables.
We camped in a low ravine, plenty of grass, but not good water or wood.
June 12th Sunday. Our Capt. Thought it advisable to go on to good water
and grass. We were reluctant to travel so much on the Sabbath, but it
seemed unavoidable. After 18 or 20 miles travel we got over the Black
Hills and reached once more the river and camped.
June 13th Went 4 or 5 miles over a smooth low bluff, and laid up for
the day. When a general washing, cooking, siring took place. At night
rained and hailed, but did now blow very hard. Our stock made and effort
to stampede, but all rallied and staked them.
June 14th On the march again. Passed Dry Creek which winds its way through
the cavities of high sandy bluffs, some of which are more than 100 ft.
high. Afternoon, passed the most sig-zaggy road I ever say. The front
wagons pass around the rear ones forming a complete circle.
June 15th Start out before breakfast for grass go 6 miles and find but
little. Prickly peas are so think that you can scarcely find a place to
step without crushing them. Afternoon make a short drive through deep
sand again and camp on the river which is reduced to a small stream at
this point–is quite rocky and runs quite swiftly.
June 16th Very pleasant weather. A few scrubby pines on the opposite
bank is all the timber visible. The rocks, mountains, shrubs and flowers
present a novel scene. Roads still sandy. Noon at a cottonwood grove which
was one of the shady spots of our journey. There once more we heard the
sweet music of birds. We lounged in the shady grove, the children plucking
green boughs and flowers while out stock grazed on the grassy mound. Afternoon
deep sand. Quite warm. One man's mule team gave out and died. Camped on
the river once more. Good grass on the bluffs 1 or 2 miles from the road.
Nothing on the bottom but sage brush and some cottonwood on the river
bank.
June 17th Beautiful weather. We are now about 600 miles from the Missouri
River. Pass thru grove of cottonwood with various shrubs and flowers with
various tints. Stopped at noon at one of those delightful spots and ate
our "grub" under a large tree. 4 o'clock reached the lower bridge
of t he north forth of the Platte, where is a trading post. Here is a
cut-off going to Bannock. 100 wagons waiting. Some of our company join
them. Camp this beautiful June evening on the river once more. There is
no grass owing to so many teams waiting. No wood except grease-wood brush,
burns well.
June 18th Rest half-day. Noon, ascend a very steep, sandy hill, thence
4 miles to upper Platte bridge of good structure built by government.
Toll $3.00 per wagon. A soldier station here, trading post, etc. where
supplies are kept for immigrants. We halted a short time and visited the
soldiers and Indian burial ground. The soldiers were neatly enclosed.
The Indians place their dead in a box with all its clothing, property,
etc. and elevate it on posts 18 or 12 ft high. Some snow on the mountains
8 or 10 miles distant. Clouds settle below the top of the snow capped
mountains. Quite cool at night almost to freezing, but very warm in the
afternoon. Camp on Platte for the last time.
June 19th Sunday. We would gladly have rested but having rested ½
day yesterday, Capt. said go. Went 5 or 6 miles and bid adieu to Platte,
bearing to the right. Have crossed the plains and are beginning to climb
mountains, but are only gradual elevations as yet. Afternoon intersect
Bridge's cut-off to the new gold diggins. At Sunset reach Willow Springs,
making 23 miles without water. Here a large spring and good grass.
June 20th Some mules strayed off last night. Detain us until9 o'clock.
Some of us busied ourselves gathering gooseberries which grew along the
spring branch. Pass over Prospect Hill, a huge barren mound, gradually
descending each day. Here we have a fine view of the surrounding country.
Noon at a small branch. We saw number of antelope bounding over the hills.
Our boys dropped their lunch and bounded after them, but all in vain.
Came on a small stream, clear and beautiful, but full of Alkali. Rocky
Mountains in sight. Emigration lessened.
June 21st One of our best oxen poisoned to death with alkali. The low
places are a bed of evaporated water which at a distance looks like snow
banks. Some gather it up for soda, but I declined, thinking that if it
would kill an ox, it would a man, too. 10 o'clock reached another soldier
station on Sweet Water. Halted a short time to visit the barracks which
were kept in good order. Capt. Keona in command. 18 men only. All others
scouting. Here also a telegraph office where we hear late war news. Saw
the wounded man from Black Hills. Will probably recover. ½ mile
further is the celebrated Independence Rock. Situated in the valley of
Sweet Water River, independent of all other objects, not a tree or shrub
near it, it is solid granite–on an oblong figure, rather oval at
top, is 150 ft. high and covers several acres of ground. At different
points there are natural steps which we ascended to its top. Has an uneven
surface, higher at some points with crevices or basins, in which were
growing small shrubs and flowers. All over the huge rock the hundreds
of visitors write name and dates. Some of them black or red paint, others
chiseled in the solid rock. We next hastened on 4 miles to Devil Gate.
Remained here until morning that all might have the opportunity of seeing
this grand work of nature. This is formed by the Sweet Water passing through
a solid rock, forming a narrow gate or passage. The rock is 400 ft. high
perpendicular a little projecting at the top. The river gushes madly through
the gate forming a cataract, the gate is ½ to 3/4 miles in length.
It is so narrow at places that it could be leaped. Our party commenced
climbing up the huge steps, then a distance over a smooth rock, then another
flight of steps, another smooth rock which was a little too slick–some
of us took off our shoes to prevent falling. Some grew tired and returned,
while some of us curious ones kept on going up, up, until we nigh well
reached top, then looked down upon the grand scene below. Then returned
to the gate, carrying specimens of rocks, evergreens, and flowers. There
is a very narrow pathway between the river and the rock, along which grows
beds of roses in full bloom, with various other beautiful flowers which
added grandeur to scene making it truly an "oasis". On the walls
were written hundreds of names, each striving to get his or hers highest.
We viewed the awfully sublime scene and exclaimed, "How wonderful
are thy works, Oh God". Our party sat down on the steps and sang
"The Battle Cry of Freedom", "John Brown", etc. which
echoed from the towering rocks above us to the rushing waters at our feet
June 22nd Start out early. Road good, some sandy, plenty of water, but
strongly impregnated with alkali. Dead oxen, mules, and horses strewn
along the way that have died of it. Travel 18 mi. and camp at base of
a craggy, rocky mountain beside Sweet Water which takes its name from
the brackish and sweet taste the alkali produces. I think it is very unwholesome.
Our hand and feet were certainly chapped and very sore while we used it.
June 23rd Grass scarce, owing to the alkali. At the river at noon while
a thunder shower approaches, but does not reach us. We are now in the
Rocky Mountains, and yet are not aware of our being so high our ascent
has been so gradual. These mountains are formed of huge rock piled one
over another forming great mountains with scarcely any soil although scrubby
vins are growing in the crevices, between each mountain is a small plain
through which our road twists is way, along which grass grows, sagebrush
and flowers. Afternoon cross the river 3 times in 1 mile, making 20 miles.
Camp on the river with good grass over the river. The Wind River Mountains
are far to the right which are white with snow. The clouds far below them.
June 24th Cold as Greenland. Overcoats, cloaks, and blankets are in demand.
Go 17 miles turn to the right 1 mile from road and camp. Excellent grass,
plenty of dry sagebrush for fuel. Mountain or brunch grass looks like
timothy– very rich.
June 25th Still colder as we ascend the mountain. Some ice this morning,
but probably 85 or 90 in the afternoon. Road rough all day. Go into camp
at 3 o'clock. A ranch and telegraph office.
June 26th Sunday. By most the day is spent as usual in hunting, washing,
etc. A few of us have S.S. in our tent which was pleasant. Sang as usual
"Rest for the Weary".
June 27th Cool but pleasant. Leave Sweet Water to the left. Road full
of small round stones travel very slow. 6 miles–Soap Suds Lake, which
is a large basin of water-alkali. Noon at a small mountain stream which
is pure snow water very cold. 1 mile further found J.D. Jones and others
prospecting on Willow Creek. Capt. ordered a halt that we might all see
the precious dust washed out. Men, women and children hastened to the
spot with pans, buckets, shovels, picks, knives and e very available thing
to was gold. Spent the afternoon, returned to camp, satisfied with gold
digging.
June 28th Rained last night, cold this morning. 11 0'clock reached Landers
Cut-off which we take, bearing to right. 8 miles further, camp on a small
stream where 2 other trains were resting until large trains came up. We
are near Freeman's Peak. Takes its name from the fact G. Freeman explored
it. Is 11,000 ft. above the level of the sea, covered with snow.
June 29th – 30th Thermometer below freezing point. Good road over
a long ridge– 18 miles and camp on the head water of Sweet Water.
Food, grass, buffalo, clover, with dry willow for wood. Cross the "Summit"
the diving line between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The water is
now running west. We being so high the air is so pure– or has such
a large proportion of oxygen that it is with difficulty that we get enough
to inflate our lungs. Cross little Sandy, then through deep sand to Sandy
Slough and camp.
July 1st Go 15 miles to Green River– wait til morning for
the river to fall. The snow in the mountains melts through day, swelling
the river at night, but in the morning is fordable. No snow melts through
the night. Caught some fish here.
July 2nd Blocked up our wagon beds and in 2 hours was safely over. Then
8 miles –to the 2nd ford. Blocked up again, crossed and dinnered
on its banks. Then 12 miles– muddy creek, plenty of grass and willow
rush, but it was too dark to find it. We all fasted until morning, which
only made us relish our breakfast.
July 3rd Sunday again. go 10 miles to Duck Creek where is good water
and wood (or rather brush). Laid over for the day. Night, quite a sensation
produced in camp on the reception of a new baby and a "Hygiene"
at that. The lady wore the short dress, ate graham bread, etc, and of
course need of a great ado about it.
July 4th Laid over to celebrate the 4ath and the "Baby". While
thousands crowd every city, village, and country – midst the roaring
of cannon and tumult of voices of brave and free men, who today celebrate
the glorious 4th under the stars and stripes of their once happy land,
we, a little band far from home and friends in the desert wild, quietly
remember this "anniversary day", but as the day advances, some
manifestation must be exhibited. A hunting excursion is announced. Others
prefer to sit quietly and angle beside the stream and think of the past.
While home occupies a very prominent place in their minds, the children,
too, must have a good time, so they are having a picnic in a bower which
they have made of willows. The stars and stripes are floating over them
while they are spreading out their good things in the form of small crackers,
pies and cakes. While a few of us keep tent and scratch a few item, but
the proud young father and mother's attention is entirely taken with that
baby. Night. 2 more trains come in – the hunting party returns, so
a salute must be fired. Every man (except a very few copperheads) with
gun and pistol paraded in front of our camp. Then 3 loud cheers was give
for "Our Country", "The soldiers in the field", etc.
midst a roaring of hundreds of "little guns". Thus passed the
4th.
July 5th Still in camp waiting for marching orders, but as none came,
some of us strolled out for gooseberries, notwithstanding the Indians.
Gathered 1 gallon each.
July 6th Our party separates, we go on with 12 wagons, leaving 8, going
5 miles through a marshy bottom, then turn into a 12 mile canyon. The
commencement of the Bear River mountains. Afternoon, an axle of a wagon
is broken. Camped – and made an axle. Plenty of berries.
July 7th Still going into the canyon which has a creek which we cross
and recross all day, the canyon being so narrow with the steep cliffs
on either side. Got through in afternoon and found ourselves in the mountains,
surrounded with tall pines 75 or 80 ft. high – not larger at the
root than a man's thigh , and growing g so closely together as to darken
the road. The farther up we go, the larger and higher the trees. Pass
an old abandoned fort, then a lonely grave – a mother. Oh! How sad
must that father and husband have been when he buried his dear wife in
that dark and lonely spot– left to the haunts of the savages and
wild beasts. A rough foaling enclosed the grave over which was left her
accustomed chair with name, age, etc. cut into the posts of the foaling.
Steep, rough road for 5 miles then enter another canyon. Not so narrow
as before. Here another wagon gave way, which detain us for that day.
Had gooseberry pie for supper.
July 8th Start early, commence climbing heavy hills – or rather
mountains. Road overhung with tall pines, fir and cedar. Up one mountain
around the slope into a canyon and the same thing repeated is all that
can be said. On the tops of the mountain we look down into deep canyons
which are darkened with evergreens in every canyon. The clean cold snow
water came rushing down mountain sides, just in sufficient quantity to
quench the thirsts of exhausted men and beasts. Saw some Indians on the
top of one of these high mountains but they seemed afraid of us. NO grass,
but we had some "chop" for our horses and mules. Camped in a
canyon – making 16 miles.
July 9th Out early, push on as fast as possible and get over about 9
o'clock. Came down the canyon into a valley which our guide calls Independence
Valley, through which runs a creek, good grass – wood – gooseberries
and strawberries, roses and hollyhocks. 10 o'clock, start again, go about
8 miles and camp in big meadow on the same creek. The best grass I ever
saw. Our tame meadows could not excel it. Abundance of fish in stream.
July 10th Sunday. Travel til noon and rest for the day in the big meadow
which is about 20 miles long and 5 wide. Ice freezes every night 3/4 inches
thickness.
July 11th Go up another 20 mile canyon – 7 miles came to salt springs.
Acres of ground were covered with a beautiful quality of salt. Beds of
salt from 1 to 2 fee deep. We carved off specimens, saw a few Indians.
6 o'clock camp at the western base of the B. mountains. Good grass, wood
and water near camp. Still freezing at night.
July 12th Wait this morning to make a wagon tongue. Start at 10 –
6 miles and noon at Cold Springs. Country very rough – hills and
ravines. Pass big lake, a singular looking place. Looked for a "grizzly"
but none made its appearance. Camp at small creek. There met Rev. Hungate,
a Baptist missionary to Oregon, sent out by the H.M. Society. He will
travel with us. Road today very good.
July 13th After going a short distance, fund large quantities of fish
in a small stream. All went out with line and blankets, gunny sacks, and
every conceivable thing that would draw a fish out. Caught 2 or 3 bus.
Of small ones and went on to Black Foot River. Nooned – here the
juncture of Ft. Bridges and East Hannock road. A ranch – 6 miles
and recrossed the river. 8 miles further and camped on the S. side of
same. Plenty of good grass. Weather growing warmer.
July 14th Good roads. Noon at large spring at the mouth of the canyon.
A large spring – water not too good. Large quantities of currants
– yellow, black and red. Gathered bushels of them. Not too good.
July 15th Travel 9 or 10 miles down a small stream, on which grow some
gooseberries and service berries. Afternoon go over a dry sandy waste
to Snake River and camp. Indians herding ponies.
July 16th Move 1 mile down to the ferry. A ranch and some Indian
wigwams. Sold them flour for $20.00. $3.00 toll per wagon, 40 cents each
for loose stock. This is the largest river since leaving the Missouri.
Thence 3 miles down the river to a spring bursting from a rock which yields
abundance of water for all our stock. 9 miles farther another spring much
larger than before. Rest here. Sold our ox wagon and cattle. This place
is 4 miles from Ft. Hall, which I believe is on the river at another crossing.
Some of our party stop here, where commences the "dry desert".
July 17th 2 wagons, besides ours, venture out on the 33 miles stretch.
A barren waste without wood, water or grass. A few sagebrush occasionally.
Pushed on as fast as possible. Stopped at noon to refresh our horses by
giving them a small amount of corn meal and flour and 1 gal. each of water
which we carried in our kegs. Then pushed on to the "Butte"
where the spring is. We seemed to be within 5 or 6 miles, but proved to
be 16. Reached it at dark when a search was made for the spring which
we finally found 1 mile up a canyon. It gushes from the Butte, then sank
with in a few rods. We could not drive to it, so narrow was the passage.
Unhitched, took our horses and kegs for water. Then going in search of
grass for our hungry horses – finally found some bunches of dry grass.
Stopped to rest, but not to sleep. There were a number of suspicious looking
men at the spring which we watched by turn. They proved to be miners returning
home.
July 18th The beautiful moonlight night passed away and the little company
are safe. Return to the spring for water, then go 12 miles to Lost River
which rises and sinks again a number of times. There are several buttes
in the plain. The surrounding country has the appearance of once having
been a volcanic region. Large heaps of black rocks made up the scenery
in the forenoon. Afternoon, rest at Lost River which is nearly dry –
only standing in puddles. Some grass. Saw here some sage hens.
July 19th Start out at 8. Another barren 25 miles of road as yesterday
– melted rock or lava looking like sone, coal cinders piled up in
all manner of shapes and sizes. Were doubtless thrown from these "Buttes".
Reached the water at sundown. A spring running down a steep mountain –
very cold. Snow on the mountains, yet the thermometer 85 in the valley.
Good grass on sides of the mountain.
July 20th a large train comes in at daybreak, having traveled all night
– being so much easier on cattle to make a t rip at night. At 7 o'clock
we start out, leaving the large train resting. The land is so filled with
lava that we go around the base of a mountain which is the worst road
that we have found yet. Climbing mountains, descending very steep places,
crossing craggy ditches over beds of rocks which we feared would break
our wagon. All along the road were pieces of axles, tongues, spokes, etc.
Plenty of good water and some grass. Got through 3 or 4 miles through
a green valley and camped on a creek where was plenty of excellent grass
and water. Our small party lay down and slept quietly.
July 21st Road good – everything pleasant again. Kill some sage
hens. Camp at a mountain base.
July 22nd Met a drove of horses yesterday, with 4 savage looking men.
This morning meet 4 men in hot pursuit. The horses had been stolen at
S. Boise. We now enter Cambras Prairie 50 or 60 miles in length. Indians
with droves of ponies grazing on the prairie. Noon at Wood River, but
little grass owning to its being a general camp. Camp by mt. stream.
July 23rd Good roads and the best of grass and water. 2 o'clock reach
a creek were a number of teams are resting. Stop until tomorrow noon.
Night – Rev. Hungate preached in the wilderness beside a large camp
fire to 15 or 20 persons, but we were assured that Jehovah dwelleth not
alone in the temples made with hands. He is a man of talent, not much
zeal.
July 24th By noon – start out with 3 other families who are bound
for Oregon. Road still goos. 12 or 15 miles and camp on quaking ash grove
near creek. Rained at night, pleased us.
July 25th A number of Indians came into camp today. Watch them closely.
Tried to steal "Fanny", our mare. The whole surface is covered
with black crickets or locusts. Afternoon, enter little Cambras Prairie.
A number of farmers making hay have number of wagons.
July 26th Raining. More hilly roads, plenty of good water. Afternoon,
go up a very steep hill1 mile to its top. Come down in a canyon where
is a ranch and camp, a number of packers and miners. We placed out a guard
tonight. 2 o'clock at night, Mr. L hailed a man who was sneaking around
not suspecting a guard and on finding same "skedaddled" in a
hurry. Good grass on the side of the mountain.
July 27th Saw an "expressman" who gave us a copy of the Boise
City News. A very hard road this forenoon. Mostly downgrade this afternoon.
Came to "Massacre Creek", where a train of immigrants were murdered
here by the Indians, which gave it its name. Thence down the creek and
to the junction of Salt Lake Road. A ranch, a number of teams resting.
Thence 3 miles to a small spring where men were making hay. Camped.
July 28th Ranches at every watering place. Stop at noon at Squaw creek.
Here our party s topped to wash and straighten up. Was a Rancho kept my
a Mr. Davidson, formerly a M.E. minister, but was rather rebellious at
this time. Gave him some "tracts" which he was very thankful
for. Bought vegetables, potatoes 50 cents per lb., onion, $1.00, turnips
30 cents.
July 29th 18 miles to Boise River. Very low – forded it. It is continually
muddy, in consequence. Mining, wheat, oats and hat raised here.
July 30th 2 miles to Boise City, a new but stirring place. Some of our
party stopped here and sold flour for $15.00 in gold. Did not stay long
in the city of Gold. 8 miles and camped on dry creek.
July 31st Grass very scarce, being so near the town. Have to violate
the Sabbath again. Go to 12 mile creek, expecting to stop, but found neither
grass or water. The next point was the Payette River which we reached
at sundown. It is a clear pretty stream fordable at this season.
Aug. 1st Rest until noon. Very warm. Grass drying. The valley
is being settled, large field of hay. Will not produce grain without irrigation.
Met large droves of pack animals with sacks, kegs, and large government
wagons drawn by 6 yokes of oxen and 6 mules.
Aug. 2nd Still going down the river – very dusty. The country is
filled with a class of desperadoes. Cross the river 6 miles and camp.
Very Warm. Mosquitoes bad. Grass scarce owing to the large pack train.
Meet a circus going to try their luck in the city of gold.
Aug. 3rd Start at 9 o'clock, traveling on stage line and can get news
occasionally. Reach Snake River again, it being such a crooked stream
that our road crosses it twice.. Go down it 30 miles before crossing.
Camp at night at Ranch kept by Mr. Poindexter. Pasture our horses for
15 cents each.
Aug. 4th Very good roads. Valley thickly settled. Along the river, grass
very scarce. Cloth and cool.
Aug. 5th Cloudy and cool. Start early. 7 miles reach the ferry. Toll
$2.00 per wagon in gold or $4.00 in greenbacks. This river which wind
through deep canyons, barely enough room for a road. Good mountain grass
on the steep cliffs. But it is difficult to get to it. Our men take blankets
and sleep on the mountains with their horses.
Aug. 6th Camped at spring. Quite cool. Go 1 mile and give $1.00 for rolling
down a steep hill, which some men have graded, claiming a charter to "toll".
Road very rough 9 or 10 miles. Noon on a small stream. Have to take our
horses 2 miles to grass. Afternoon, leave the river 6 miles to a stage
station and camp. Some men are mining in this place, making 5 or 6 dollars
a day.
Aug. 7th Start at 7. 9 or 10 miles and again reach river. Rev. Hungate
preached tonite in a ranch.
Aug. 8th Cool and pleasant. Ranches every few miles. Garden irrigated.
Camp at a small spring at the left of the road. Here was one of our dark
spots. Night closing on us in a sandy bottom, without grass or wood and
only a mud puddle for water.
Aug. 9th Start at sunrise. 12 miles across this barren to Powder River
slough and water and grass. 11 miles further to Ward's Ranch on same slough,
and rest for the day. A very pleasant place which made up for the dark
last night. Ward keeps a first class Hotel for this country. Is an intimate
acquaintance of L & H (Lafayette and Hiram) Loughary. Night –
a thunderstorm – blew terrible.
Aug.10th Pleasant again. Very cool as we are nearing the range of Blue
Mountains which are in sight. Travel down Powder River. Good road and
grass. It is a small stream, muddy a duck puddle, owing to the mining
on it. Camp on a creek – good water, grass and wood.
Aug. 11th Ice froze last night. Good roads, rolling but smooth. Afternoon,
reach Grande Ronde valley at the eastern base of the Blue Mountains. A
nice fertile place, thickly inhabitated. Gardens, farms, wheat, oats,
and hay in abundance. Springs of clear cold water gushing from the mountain
side every ½ mile. One mile up the valley is new and flourishing
La Grande – contains about 300 inhabitants. A meeting house.
Aug. 12th Start at noon, climbing a very steep hill, taking the old Immigrant
Road. Should have taken the "Daily" road. After winding around
the hills and up canyons, came down to Grand Ronde River and camped. No
grass. Again in heavy spruce, fir & pine.
Aug. 13th Out early. 1 mile up a branch find green grass and s top for
a day. A steep cliff 4 or 5 hundred ft. high, added to this are tall fir
trees 100 ft.. Also in the valley the valley the trees were very large,
shutting out the sun, making it a beautiful retired spot.
Aug. 14th This was a nice place to leave on the Sabbath. But when we
are in Rome we must do as Rome Does. I was forcibly reminded of the usual
Sabbath stillness, when instead of starting on a journey, we went to the
house of worship. Our road wound through deep ravines and over high mountains
covered with beautiful fir, cedar, and laurel which darkened the road
with their green foliage. Noon at the top of the Blue Mts. Towards night
there was a cry of "Huckleberries" which we all gladly responded
to by leaping from the wagons – bounding through the bushes like
savages – filling pails, aprons, skirts, and bonnets with the blackened
bushes. Camped at Lee's encampment, a beautiful mountain home, but shut
our entirely by the balance of mankind. But many a dollar he gleans from
the weary traveler. The wolf, wildcat, panther, and bear kept up a hideous
yelling all night long. Grass is very scarce. The grass on the mountain
is not good.
Aug. 15th Start at Sunrise. Road down grade all day. We here lay in wood
for the next 6 or 8 days. At 3 o'clock reach Umatilla Valley which is
an Indian reservation. They till the soil. Some of them are quite wealthy.
A government agent lives with them. Bought potatoes very cheap.
Aug. 16th Have our horses 2 miles from the road for grass. Do
not start until 9. Go down the river about 12 miles, cross then 7 miles
and camp on its banks. Plenty of grass, wood and water.
Aug. 17th We wished to take the Birch Creek Road, but after wandering
around until 12 o'clock found ourselves at the camp of the previous night.
Then resuming the Old Immigrant Road went 18 miles over a dry sandy ridge
to the Umatilla again. Then had to take our stock 2 miles on up the hill.
Our men as usual after supper took their dogs, blankets, and guns and
sleep on the mountain with the stock. Plenty of vegetables.
Aug. 18th Have to make another dry stretch of 15 miles to Butter Creek,
which is well night dry, with grass very scarce. No wood except what we
buy from the ranchers.
Aug. 19th Another 18 mile dry stretch is announced the morning. Our road
is through rolling sand hills, plenty of dry grass which is very rich,
but without water is comparative useless. Reach the "well spring"
at 4 o'clock. This is a small oasis in the middle of a great waste. Have
large number of teams and pack trains. Can buy oats, wood, mild, etc.
Aug. 20th Move on to the next watering place which is 14 miles distant.
Road sandy, no green vegetation except an occasional scrubby cedar or
greasewood. Reach Willow Creek in the afternoon. Can hire pasture for
25 cents ea or take them to miles up the mountain. Can get fuel –
dry willows. Night wind blew the sand so terribly that cooking was almost
impossible. Quite cold as we are nearing the Cascades.
Aug 21st Sunday. Would like to rest but the scarcity of wood and grass
forbids it. Our road still sandy, but more level. Reach Rock Creek at
sundown, making 18 miles. Plenty
Aug. 22nd of grass, wood and water. So we substitute Monday for Sunday
and rest. Bought very nice potatoes and onions from ranchers. Indians
brought in fish and melons to exchange for flour, bacon, etc. Water strongly
impregnated with lime, etc.
Aug. 23rd Start out again after laying in another supply of wood. 4 miles
up the creek to John Day River which is quite a stream, but is now fordable.
3 dwellings, a blacksmith shop, etc. After crossing the river, go up a
long graded hill 3 miles to the top. Here our party separate. The right
hand road to the Dalles, and left, the Old Immigrant Road across the Cascade
Mountains. The sands was driving so badly that we all went 2 miles to
the left of the road into a deep canyon where was a small spring, and
laid over and had to stake down our wagons an go to bed supperless. Some
of our party did attempt to get supper but as sand is not very nutritious,
we fasted.
Aug. 24th This morning our party separated – all going over the
mountain except our wagon. Very good roads, mostly green water more frequent.
Ranches at every water spot. Can buy plenty of vegetables and fresh beef.
17 miles and camp at the head of a canyon. Excellent grass and water.
This is the first night that we camped alone since leaving Iowa.
Aug. 25th Go down the canyon 3 miles to the Deschutes. Has a splendid
bridge. Toll for our wagon and horses was $1.60 gold or its equivalent
in Greenbacks. Then up the steepest hill of the route – 1 mile in
length, or rather height 4 miles to 12 mile creek where are several farms,
on one an orchard, oats, corn, potatoes, melons, etc. Bought some beef
and onions. Springs, gushing from the steel hill sides quite frequently.
Camp 6 miles from The Dalles.
Aug. 26th Will remain here today while Mr. L. goes to The Dalles to ascertain
the fare to Portland and to meet H. (Hiram) Loughary, who is expected
to meet us here. Afternoon, Mr. L. returned. H.L. did not arrive. We will
remain 1 or 2 days longer.
Aug. 27th Still in camp, our horses resting. Grass dry, but rich.
Aug. 28th Move down to town at noon. Cross the railroad 2 miles from
town. It is a portage around the upper falls of the Columbia. The sight
of a railroad once more carried us back to our old home. The Dalles is
a stirring business place. The steamer leaves daily at 5 o'clock A.M.
and arrives at 5 P.M. , except Sundays.
Aug. 29th Remain in town today. Will ship tomorrow. Had an opportunity
of seeing the town. A fort with Cl. volunteers at this place. 3 meeting
houses, and a good school.
Aug. 30th At 4 o'clock waiting for the tap of the steamer bell. It "taps"
and we drive on board. The fare is $14.00 per wagon, $5.00 for each horse,
$6.00 each adult and children free. We succeeded, however in getting a
ticket for $40.00. The scenery down the river is said to be the most magnificent
of the Pacific Coast. The day was so stormy that I was compelled to remain
in the cabin most of the day and was deprived of seeing all. The river
at The Dalles is a quite narrow channel, but it deepens and widens as
we go farther down it. 40 miles from the Dalles is the Cascade Locks.
Here we take the cars and go 5 miles of portage. A gentleman told us to
occupy a seat on the south side of the care that we might have an opportunity
of seeing the falls and we had no more time to look at passengers –
such was the grandeur of the falls. The road runs along the bank and at
a point is cut through rocks, overhung with evergreens and other beautiful
scenery and shrubbery. A large stone had rolled in the track which took
some time to remove, but all the better for us who wished to gaze upon
nature's works. Cascade Station was finally announced where we were again
transferred to a steamer that was just landing. Here we met H. (Hiram)
Loughary who had failed to get our letters in time to get farther. Afternoon,
the scenery is beyond the description of my pen. The banks of both sides
are almost entirely solid rock, mostly perpendicular for several hundred
feet and so smooth as to look like solid masonry. On the tops of these
are fir and cedar. Springs gush out and pour over the precipice forming
a spray. At intervals a low green spot where there was a farm, garden,
orchard, etc. Several high towers rise out of the river. Some solid stone
looking like monuments of art, others have a little soil and are covered
with cedars. At 3 o'clock touches at Vancouver, in Washington, the oldest
place on the Pacific Coast. An old looking Soldiers barracks-most of Oregon
Vol. – are here. The river at this point is something like the Mississippi
in Burlington. Banks become more level. A few miles and we turn into the
Willamette River, run up 12 miles to Portland. The river up to Portland
is mostly tide water. Small ships run up with the tide. Several steamer
in port, but none of the "ship" kind. The city is built principally
of low wooden houses. Has a good wharf. The fist attractable things was
the different Omnibuses calling for passengers for the Temperance House,
etc. We informed them that we drove our own omnibus and slept in our own
hotel. Bought some hay for our horses, some bread and butter for supper
and slept in our wagons as usual.
Sept 1st Remain in Portland until noon, rambling over city seeing
what we cold see, etc. Saw J. De Lashmutt, formerly of Des Moines County
Iowa, who invited us to go up to his house and rest for a few days. Visited
the fruit stores, and such fruit! Start up the valley, or rather over
the Ochaco mountains 10 miles and camp.
Sept 2nd Thus far our road has been through deep forests of fir. Afternoon
– we now are in the valley proper which is composed of hills of high
land, lowland, and valley on both sides of the Willamette River, interspersed
with streams, b rooks, and springs, along which are Ash, Maple, Alder,
etc. On the hills oak, mountain - fir.
Sept 3rd Reach L. (Lafayette) Loughary in the Luckiamute valley of the
Willamette Valley, 65 miles south of Portland.
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