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Hattie Loughary's Oregon Trail Diary Manuscript

NOTES OF TRAVEL FROM DANVILLE, DES MOINES COUNTRY, IOWA

to DALLAS, POLK COUNTY, OREGON

March 30th to September 3rd 1864

by MRS. H. A. LOUGHARY

 

Hattie's original notes were probably copied into manuscript format after arriving in Oregon. Several hand made copies were made over the years, and some of these eventually photocopied. A typewritten copy was made by Mildred Loughary around 1960 and also photocopied. The present copy was re-typed into WordPerfect checking both formats for issues of accuracy. See a companion piece, "Hattie's Diary...the story behind its discovery" also in Loughary Stories.

March 30th We left out old home, and dear friends amidst sighs, & good-byes with many a "wish you a safe journey", etc. About one mile from home, our ox team went into a mud hole and broke a log-chain, which was an introduction to the trials of a trip across the Plaines. But his was the "Alpha and Omega" of breaking during he whole tripl We travel on in silence to N. London. Stopped at Bro. Otto's. I passed away the evening in silence, thinking of the tender chords that had so recently been broken, and that perhaps forever.

March 31st Noon at Mt. Pleasant, where we saw E. Alter and J. Ritner. Purchased a few articles and hastened on, expecting to reach our brothers that night, but the muddy roads prevented us. So we "pitched tent", ate supper and slept on the ground comfortable.

April 1st Went 4 miles to our brothers and stopped until Saturday morning .

April 2nd Were again compelled to bid adieu to dear friends and relatives, who were so reluctant to part with us. But we must do it. The morning was cold and cloudy, but he roads improving. Thence, to Fairfield. Saw Rev. Williams who swished us to give him a description of Oregon. Thence to a creek and camped by its bank. It being Saturday we expected to remain over Sunday, but when the morning came the rain

April 3rd commenced, which increased so that at noon the creek was so swollen that we found we could to cross by morning, and in consideration of which, we went to Agency City through a drenching rain. The place was so deluged, and still raining. We were compelled to put up at a tavern. We ate our"goul", slept on a wet bar-room floor on our own bedding, fed our own grain, and paid $4.75.

April 4th Still raining, but we could not stand hotel prices for such fare, so we moved on to Ottumwa. Meanwhile, the rain had ceased. Noon, crossed the Des Moines River, and cast a long and lingering look–Thence 15 miles to "Fathers" where we stopped until Saturday, the weather being so disagreeable and roads so muddy.

April 9th Once more kindred ties were broken. And we hastened away from our parental home glad that we had got beyond the reach of sad good-byes. Afternoon, pass Albia, county seat of Monroe; a very nice place. Three meeting houses, a very beautiful court house and P. square. Thence a few miles further and camped in an oak thicket. Wind blowing quite cold.

April 10th Sunday. Having no grain for our stock, were compelled to pull out, going in a northwesterly course to a little village Bremer. Thence 6 miles further. Marysville, a small lace on a creek which was so swollen by the recent rains as to make crossing quite difficult. Came very near upsetting one wagon in the stream. 2 miles further found plenty of corn and oats. Camped in the rear of a large M.E. Meeting house, which reminded us of the Sabbath.

April 11th Started out early. 8 0'clock commenced raining. Road very muddy and rough. Noon at English Creek over which was a high narrow bride without bannisters. The boards being wet, our cattle slipped and refused to cross. They finally ventured and fell off, but did not hurt them. Had to unyoke our oxen and lead them over, drawing the wagon by hand. Afternoon, passed Knoxville, country seat of Marion. Situated in an eminence beautifully surrounded with large cottonwood trees. 4 meeting houses, a beautiful court house, and a very large Public S. house. This is the prettiest country that we have seen. Went 2 miles and camped on White-Breast, over which was a bridge nearly washed away by the recent flood. we told not to cross.

April 12th Did cross the bridge single file Again. . Cool and pleasant. Are now in Warren County, beautiful farming land, but improvements spoor. Dinner in fence corner, and pencil a few items on a fence rail. Quite cool, but road improving rapidly. Afternoon, passed Pleasantville where the "Small Pox" was said to be raging. "A dead stillness reigned within." We were told not to go through the village, but we went through without so much as a smell of the small pox upon our garments. Then going 6 miles to Sandyville, bought corn for 40 cents. Timber rather scarce, but coal in abundance.

April 14th Very cold fro the season, but good for traveling. Pass thru St. Charles, thence to and thru a sketch of timber to a creek, and noon. Plenty of logs for tables.

April 15th Snowed last night. But were so snugly sleeping in our little domicile as not to be aware of it until morning. 3 miles to Wintersett. The most flourishing place that we have seen since leaving Mt. Pleasant. Here we met with W. W. Eggleston, pastor of the Baptist church in that place. Who very gladly received us, loading us with papers to date which were quite a treat to us. Afternoon go through a large open prairie, wind blowing very cold, some snow. Reach the timber about 4.

April 16th Very pleasant again. Travel all day through an open prairie. Not a tree, house or shrub visible. Except two small villages of ½ dozen houses huddled together where we found plenty of grain to exchange for plenty of "greenbacks". Hurried on to timber which we reached by sundown. The creek bottom was doted over with immigrant wagons.

April 17th Sabbath. Were anxious to rest today, but in order to make the next point to get grain had to travel until noon. Rested the remainder of day in our own tent.

April 18th Move out very early, passing through the most thinly settled portion of the state. Paid 75 cents for frost-bitten corn and glad to get it at that.

April 19th Reach Lewis and Cass Co. Here we laid in a supply of flour for the trip at $2.20 c. There is a Baptist church in this place, 2 other denominations. Here also we intersect the Des Moines Road and Telegraph line.

April 20th Have traveled 2 days through a desert waste. Mostly large rolling prairie, very gravelly.

April 21st Go 10 miles to Silver Creek where we expect to wait fro grass to grow sufficient.

April22nd Mr. L. has gone to Council Bluffs, 16 miles distant from the "camp". Night, Mr. L. has returned with a letter from our beloved minister and family, Rev. E. Russ. Never was a letter so gladly received. Business suspended–every child huddled din the tent together to hear the news. On opening, out dropped the well known "Photograph" which created no little sensation. We remain here several days, rambling through the woods picking a few flowers that are peaking our from their hiding places. Angling in the silver stream, listening to the sweet songs of spring

May 1st birds, etc., until we move within 3 miles of the "Bluffs" on Mosquito Creek. The creek bottom is literally covered with wagons, which has some resemblance of a large army waiting for orders.

May 2nd Go into town. Broadway, N.Y., couldn't make a greater stir. The number of wagons has swelled to thousands, and the persons to tens of thousands. This place is situated at the base of the large "Bluffs" 3 miles from Missouri River. After fully equipping ourselves, we go to the ferry at noon. Finding our turn to cross would not come until next day, pitched tent. Here I was taken sick with chill, followed by some fever.

May 3rd Up early before daylight and take our lace in order to cross the river. 50 Wagons ahead of us. 8 o'clock, got over. The boat ferries 100 wagons daily. Here we bid adieu to Iowa soil and from Omaha situated on a high eminence, we cast a lingering look behind us and went 7 miles and camped on a prairie stream. Still sick, confiscated a rail to warm water and get super. North wind cold, but we were comfortable.

May 4th Glad to move on. Feel some better this morning. This portion of Nebraska well improved. Prairie very rolling, good farm houses and barns with young orchards growing up. Reached Elk Horn at night and camp for a few days to wait for grass, which grows slowly.

May 5th A large number of wagons here, "waiting for the moving of the water". The Pawnee Indians are also here. They are a frightful looking specimen of humanity. They trouble very much, begging. But other wise, are peaceable. Afternoon commenced raining and continued to Strom for 3 days. We got well drenched, but just what I needed with fever.

May 7th It was noised through the camp that I had "Snap Pox"–when there was a general "Skeedaddling", but we were determined to hood our position until Monday.

May 9th When we again resumed our journey, my health greatly improved by the rest and frequent shower baths that I h ad taken. Roads very muddy. Passed Fremont, a young Nebraska village. Bought corn for 90 cents per bu. Thence to Platte River. While we were pitching our tent a very severe Strom blew, rained very hard, and hail.

May 10th So cold this morning that we had to move our tent behind a bluff to avoid the cold wind. Move at 10 o'clock. Meet with the H. Good and Co. who travel with us that afternoon and camp with us at night at "North Bend" by the river side. Good grass. The Platte is an uneven stream in width and depth, having a deep quick sand, and quite swift, making it wash out the banks in some places and piling up sand in the middle of the stream at other places, causing water to be always muddy. There are no rocks in it for 600 miles, and not so m much as a pebble or coarse sands.

May 11th Moving again, 100 wagons in line today. No companies organized as yet. Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Michigan, Wisconsin, Nebraska and Kansas are all represented in this great caravan. Truly we could say, "Westward the star of empire takes is course". The largest portion are going to Idaho, others Nevada, Oregon and California.

May 12th On the march again. We are now on the "celebrated plains", a vast level scope of country on both sides of Platte River. Much wider on the North side. From 2 to 10 miles of wagons. The Tele-graph line from Cal. To the Missouri River by way of Salt Lake follows our road to Ft. Kearney. There it crosses to the south side. We are keeping the north side. There are small farms in cultivation as far up as Ft. Kearney, where we can buy corn and hay. Stop at a "Ranche" where a post office is kept. Heard of General Grant's recent victories.

May 13th Passed Columbus on Loop fork of Platte. Bought corn for $1.25 per bu., cornmeal for $4.00 c. Cross the river which we both ferried and forded. They put us off in the middle of the stream on a sand bar and some willow brush, charging us $2.00 per wagon. The remaining part of the stream was from 2 to 3 feet deep, but after much whipping, yelling, and splashing, all got over safely, and ate dinner in the shade of our wagons. Wood is scarce, we gather sticks and roots all day, and have enough to cook supper and breakfast in our small stove. Afternoon, passed a lonely little grave by the side of the road, with a rough board marked "H.H.D.". I lingered behind a short time to drop a tear of sympathy for this sad mother who left it there.

May 14th On the March a gain. Weather pleasant, roads good. Some flowers are scattered over the plains.

May 15th Sunday, are resting our stock, but not otherwise observing the Sabbath. Some are fishing, some hunting. Others sleeping, cooking, washing, etc. I took my Bible and strolled up the river side, read a few chapters in silence. Nothing to break the stillness of the hour but the murmuring stream. It was then I thought of home, dear friends, and Sabbath privileges, that I was each day wandering farther from.

May 16th "Strike tents" is the word. Passed two more graves of the side of the road, which seem to be a mother and child. Oh! How sad it must be to leave loved ones in such a desert wild with not a tree or shrub to mark their graves. Grass not good. 17 miles today.

May 17th Still the same old thing, yet something new every day. A few farms as we near the Ft. No fences owing to scarcity of timber. Wheat ands oats growing nicely. One of our Co. found his cow in prison this morning. He had to pay $1.00 for her release. Such is Nebraska! Camp at Grand Island which is 12 miles wide and 40 ft. long. Platte River twisting all around it. Being so shallow that our boys wade to it and get wood which is plenty. Several farms on it. Wheat $1.25 per bus, corn for sale, plenty of hay made of wild grass.

May 18th Warm and dry. Grass growing slowly. The country somewhat rolling. Take our stock on the island at night for grass. Saw here, New's Boy, also S. T. Read, Willhouse, Carpenter & Gladden, from Burlington. There are a great many snakes on the plain. The most numerous are "Copperheads".

May 19th Very pleasant. All that we could more desire is plenty of grass, the emigration is so large that the grass is not sufficient yet. Saw today a village of prairie dogs which are about the size of a mink. They burrow in the ground, forming thousands of small mounds in which is their humble dwellings. They came out and barked furiously at us as we passed. Our boys spent a dozen or more shots but they were to quick to be killed by bullets. Camp again beside of the Platte.

May 20th Arrived opposite of Ft. Kearney. It being on the south side and some distance, 3 or 4 miles from the river, we did not see it. We waited until some or our party went over to the P. C. While there, Co. Wood received a dispatch that 8 men had been murdered by the Indians the day before at Cottonwood Springs, some distance up the river. This created quite a sensation in camp amongst the fearful ones. There were more than 100 or more wagons waiting for companies to organize. It being thought unsafe to go further in small squads, a general consultation took place where it was resolved to move 10 miles up the river and camp, and then on the following morning organize. This was the first "corral" that we had formed. 33 wagons were driven in a circle placing the tongue of each under the hind axle of another forming a complete barricade for our stock. A strong guard placed out. Some were very much alarmed, imagined they saw the "redskins" peeping over the bluff, while the reflective ones thought it was as "scarecrow". There were the remains of an old mud Indian fort in the circle, so the boys thought this a good opportunity for some fun. So they planted the "Stars and Stripes" on the old mud fort. A number struck up "Rally Round The Flag" and at its close, three loud cheers were given for the Red, White, and Blue by almost 100 voices which echoed from the high bluff on our right, carrying the sound far away on the vast, plains before us, then dying away in the stillness or a beautiful moonlight evening, while the flag floated softly in the breeze. At ll o'clock, all was still and slept soundly.

May 21st Cloudy with appearance of a storm. Organization Co. elected Dr. Frowell, formerly of Burlington, Iowa, president and C. McAllister as clerk. Our party numbered 33 wagons, 91 men, besides women and children. A portion wished to remain here over the Sabbath, but the majority said no. So about 8 o'clock our long train got in motion. Went 8 or 10 miles and noon at Elk Creek. About 3 o'clock began to thunder with indications of a "Platte" storm which some of us feared more than the Indians. We pushed on to reach the river (having traveled all day across a bank of the river) but found we could not. Turned off a slough where we found stock water, but not fit for ourselves. By this time the storm was near. A general commotion was in camp. Every man, woman, and child was busy unyoking oxen, unharnessing horses, driving stakes, tightening wagon covers, correlling stock, and much more we wished to do, but down came the large drops of rain and hail, when we gladly resorted to our wagons as the only place of safety, but it proved to be only a mild attack after all. Meanwhile, night closed in on us, having to go to bead supperless, while the "guard" drew its oil cloth tightly about him, watching for the Indians who might take advantage of the darkness to stamped our stock.

May 22nd Sabbath. Had expected to rest, but soon found that there was no rest for the wicked. Our Capt. Informing us that when we reached the river or some convenient place, we would stop for the day. 11 o'clock found plenty of wood, water, grass and stopped when a general overhauling took place. Washing, mending of clothes, ox yokes and halters, cooking, playing cards, etc. At night a dance; we read a few chapters, and tried to make the best we cold of it, but could not realize that it was the Sabbath.

May 23rd Our company divided, leaving us 14 wagons, Capt. Farwell remaining with us. We passed some rolling prairie today, abundance of "prickly peas", also the mountain cactus, one of the most beautiful plants that I ever saw. The "Piny" and various kinds of flowers, some resembling our cultivated flowers. Evergreens were on the islands and bluffs. A hunting party went in search of buffalo and antelope but found none. The whole country is strewn with carcasses of buffalo which appear to have perished in the snowstorm of the past winter. Camp opposite a stage station. Can see the telegraph wire which looks like civilization. Large trains of immigrants are moving up on the other side of the river.

May 24th Stay in camp today, one of our party has been sick for some time and as concluded to return home, so they are fitting up an "iron clad" to ferry him over to take stage home. We improve the time by washing, baking, etc. I should have mentioned that we laid in a supply of wood at Elm Creek, there being no more timber fro 200 miles except a little willow brush. Some of our party neglected to lay in wood and are in a bad fix.

May 25th On the march again. Travel 18 miles and cap on the same old Platte. Heard a report that Indians were committing depredations at Pawnee Sprigs some 18 or 20 miles ahead. A mule train with several hundred head of loose stock were camped at P. Springs. Two men and 1 lad were out with the stock. 2 Indians rode up, one having a gun, the other a bow and arrow, made signs of friendship, then suddenly drew the weapons, killing one man and severely injuring the other. The boy fired at the Indians, but did not kill either. This intelligence caused another stir in our camp. There was a general reloading of guns and revolvers and a strong guard at night

May 26th Move on again. Made Pawnee Springs. Saw no Indians. A single white was there, selling whiskey, who was strongly suspicioned as having part of the recent depredations.

May 27th Passed this morning the grave of the murdered man. His grave was on banks of canyon creek, neatly buried. A board marked "J.H. Manning , killed by Indian May 24th, 1864 of Pike Country, Missouri ". Afternoon some alkali resembling soda was seen. Also saw a mountain rabbit which is much larger than ours, and the meat tastes like venison.

May 28th Overtook the mule train. The wounded man recovering. No Indians to be seen. I am writing on the banks of the river which at this point is 3/4 mile wide. The sun is setting on a beautiful evening. The canary birds (which a lady has) are singing sweetly. The river rolls by quietly at my feet and I can scarcely believe that we are in an enemy's land surrounded with dangers. So far from our loved ones and once loved home.

May 29th Passed over some sand bluffs, winding around some distance, then coming down to the river again. Passed. P. Smith's train of Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. Saw some of our acquaintances camp near a temporary well which had been dug by immigrants. Three trains are here tonight. They are having a good time generally. Foot racing, jumping, and another dance is to come off tonight.

May 30th Go over more sand bluffs, the sand from 56 to 8 inches deep. Some have to double teams, but as we are not heavy loaded, can pass over easily. At the base of the bluff is a small hill which is covered with roses, which filled the morning air with their fragrance. We named it "Rose Hill". Afternoon saw the first " Sioux" Indian. About 4 o'clock, passed an Indian village. They were a ghastly looking set of men, half naked women, children entirely naked. They seemed quite friendly. Came over and looked at us strangely. Night, joined P. Smith's train. God grass and water.

June 1st Commenced raining. Pushed out early to get another sand bluff over before the rain. The hills were covered with roses and other beautiful flowers. Go into camp at 3 o'clock.. Still raining.

June 2nd Still drizzling rain. Some willow brush for fuel, the buffalo chips too wet to burn. Clears up at noon, started out at 1 o'clock. Our boys rode out and killed a number of rabbits.

June 3rd Very pleasant again. Grass growing nicely since the r ain. Road good.

June 4th Saw today a number of immigrant graves. One marked "William Shaw, killed by accident, May 3rd, 1864".

June 5th Very pleasant. Grass not so good owing to the sand. "Chimney and court house" have been in sight all day–are still 30 miles distant, though do not appear to be over a few miles.

June 6th Cool wind blowing from the N. W. Saw some Indian wigwams, where some renegade white men were living with squaws. Camp opposite the celebrated rocks. Chimney Rock at a distance, looks like a spire of a large meeting house. It is 150 ft. high, about 10 ft. wide at the top. The other resembles a court house with a dome in the centre. Are not solid granite, but a soapstone. Are on the south side of the river, consequently did not visit them. Afternoon, Sunday School class in our tent. Sang "Rest for The Weary".

June 7th Clear and warm. Roads very sandy. Pass the line between Idaho and Nebraska, and are now in the land of gold. Camp on Raw Hide creek, where is an Indian agency. The roads are becoming more sandy. Good grass, but no wood yet. Indian wigwams every few miles. They follow holding our mocassin, beads, and dressed in skins to exchange for provisions. Come to timber again and camp 10 miles from Ft. Laramie.

June 9th Start early for the Ft. where we all expect to hear of loved ones at home. We drag through heavy sand and reach Laramie at 11 o'clock. The first object that met our view was the "colors" flying over the fort, which was warmly cheered by our boys. Meanwhile, we threw our Stars and Stripes to the breeze, which the soldiers in turn raised their caps to. We felt that we were yet on American soil. After dinner, most of our party went over to the fort, it also being on the S. side. We waited until night for our "turn" to come. Many being so anxious for letters that they offered sums of money to the P.M. to give their letters out. We should have crossed the fiver here, re-crossing at upper Platte Bridge, but our Capt. Thought otherwise and missed it badly. We could have avoided the Black Hills which are very bad, and no grass out on the hills. Went 3 miles and camped where 1 man had been killed by the Indians 2 days before. 2 others seriously wounded, but all was the result of carelessness.

June 10th Commence climbing the Black Hills. The most novel and picturesque scenes that we have seen. The road wound around high hills for several miles, which were covered with cedar and pine trees. Projecting huge rocks that looked as if they had been driven into the hill sides. The mountain lily grows seemingly our of the rocks. Various other beautiful flowers met our eye at every turn. We finally reached quite an eminence, then must go down a very steep hill. Had to lick 2 or 3 wheels of each wagon. There was a spring gushing from the hill side, but what was that for hundreds of thirsty cattle and horse, and as many men, women, and children who were hourly seeking a few drops of water. We rest a while, then on again, make another hill, then descend a slop to the river, where we camp. Nothing for our hungry stock but a few weeds.

June 11th We were aroused at 4 o'clock and started in order to get grass for our stock. Ascending another slope of the Black Hills. The peaks were not as high as yesterday. Were sparsely covered with cedar, a little grass in low spots. Pass the spot where a man had been murdered by Indians. His grave was by the roadside, his faithful dog refusing to leave the grave. 8 o'clock found some grass in a canyon and stopped for breakfast. 10 o'clock moved again to the Alder Springs where the train of the murdered man was camped. The particulars were that a mule team of 4 mules, and 2 men became tired, and he being an old Californian, said there was no danger and he should stop alone. About sundown, a number of Indians came suddenly upon them, killing one and severely wounding the other, carrying off $4.00 in greenbacks and $8.00 in gold, all the mules and valuables. We camped in a low ravine, plenty of grass, but not good water or wood.

June 12th Sunday. Our Capt. Thought it advisable to go on to good water and grass. We were reluctant to travel so much on the Sabbath, but it seemed unavoidable. After 18 or 20 miles travel we got over the Black Hills and reached once more the river and camped.

June 13th Went 4 or 5 miles over a smooth low bluff, and laid up for the day. When a general washing, cooking, siring took place. At night rained and hailed, but did now blow very hard. Our stock made and effort to stampede, but all rallied and staked them.

June 14th On the march again. Passed Dry Creek which winds its way through the cavities of high sandy bluffs, some of which are more than 100 ft. high. Afternoon, passed the most sig-zaggy road I ever say. The front wagons pass around the rear ones forming a complete circle.

June 15th Start out before breakfast for grass go 6 miles and find but little. Prickly peas are so think that you can scarcely find a place to step without crushing them. Afternoon make a short drive through deep sand again and camp on the river which is reduced to a small stream at this point–is quite rocky and runs quite swiftly.

June 16th Very pleasant weather. A few scrubby pines on the opposite bank is all the timber visible. The rocks, mountains, shrubs and flowers present a novel scene. Roads still sandy. Noon at a cottonwood grove which was one of the shady spots of our journey. There once more we heard the sweet music of birds. We lounged in the shady grove, the children plucking green boughs and flowers while out stock grazed on the grassy mound. Afternoon deep sand. Quite warm. One man's mule team gave out and died. Camped on the river once more. Good grass on the bluffs 1 or 2 miles from the road. Nothing on the bottom but sage brush and some cottonwood on the river bank.

June 17th Beautiful weather. We are now about 600 miles from the Missouri River. Pass thru grove of cottonwood with various shrubs and flowers with various tints. Stopped at noon at one of those delightful spots and ate our "grub" under a large tree. 4 o'clock reached the lower bridge of t he north forth of the Platte, where is a trading post. Here is a cut-off going to Bannock. 100 wagons waiting. Some of our company join them. Camp this beautiful June evening on the river once more. There is no grass owing to so many teams waiting. No wood except grease-wood brush, burns well.

June 18th Rest half-day. Noon, ascend a very steep, sandy hill, thence 4 miles to upper Platte bridge of good structure built by government. Toll $3.00 per wagon. A soldier station here, trading post, etc. where supplies are kept for immigrants. We halted a short time and visited the soldiers and Indian burial ground. The soldiers were neatly enclosed. The Indians place their dead in a box with all its clothing, property, etc. and elevate it on posts 18 or 12 ft high. Some snow on the mountains 8 or 10 miles distant. Clouds settle below the top of the snow capped mountains. Quite cool at night almost to freezing, but very warm in the afternoon. Camp on Platte for the last time.

June 19th Sunday. We would gladly have rested but having rested ½ day yesterday, Capt. said go. Went 5 or 6 miles and bid adieu to Platte, bearing to the right. Have crossed the plains and are beginning to climb mountains, but are only gradual elevations as yet. Afternoon intersect Bridge's cut-off to the new gold diggins. At Sunset reach Willow Springs, making 23 miles without water. Here a large spring and good grass.

June 20th Some mules strayed off last night. Detain us until9 o'clock. Some of us busied ourselves gathering gooseberries which grew along the spring branch. Pass over Prospect Hill, a huge barren mound, gradually descending each day. Here we have a fine view of the surrounding country. Noon at a small branch. We saw number of antelope bounding over the hills. Our boys dropped their lunch and bounded after them, but all in vain. Came on a small stream, clear and beautiful, but full of Alkali. Rocky Mountains in sight. Emigration lessened.

June 21st One of our best oxen poisoned to death with alkali. The low places are a bed of evaporated water which at a distance looks like snow banks. Some gather it up for soda, but I declined, thinking that if it would kill an ox, it would a man, too. 10 o'clock reached another soldier station on Sweet Water. Halted a short time to visit the barracks which were kept in good order. Capt. Keona in command. 18 men only. All others scouting. Here also a telegraph office where we hear late war news. Saw the wounded man from Black Hills. Will probably recover. ½ mile further is the celebrated Independence Rock. Situated in the valley of Sweet Water River, independent of all other objects, not a tree or shrub near it, it is solid granite–on an oblong figure, rather oval at top, is 150 ft. high and covers several acres of ground. At different points there are natural steps which we ascended to its top. Has an uneven surface, higher at some points with crevices or basins, in which were growing small shrubs and flowers. All over the huge rock the hundreds of visitors write name and dates. Some of them black or red paint, others chiseled in the solid rock. We next hastened on 4 miles to Devil Gate. Remained here until morning that all might have the opportunity of seeing this grand work of nature. This is formed by the Sweet Water passing through a solid rock, forming a narrow gate or passage. The rock is 400 ft. high perpendicular a little projecting at the top. The river gushes madly through the gate forming a cataract, the gate is ½ to 3/4 miles in length. It is so narrow at places that it could be leaped. Our party commenced climbing up the huge steps, then a distance over a smooth rock, then another flight of steps, another smooth rock which was a little too slick–some of us took off our shoes to prevent falling. Some grew tired and returned, while some of us curious ones kept on going up, up, until we nigh well reached top, then looked down upon the grand scene below. Then returned to the gate, carrying specimens of rocks, evergreens, and flowers. There is a very narrow pathway between the river and the rock, along which grows beds of roses in full bloom, with various other beautiful flowers which added grandeur to scene making it truly an "oasis". On the walls were written hundreds of names, each striving to get his or hers highest. We viewed the awfully sublime scene and exclaimed, "How wonderful are thy works, Oh God". Our party sat down on the steps and sang "The Battle Cry of Freedom", "John Brown", etc. which echoed from the towering rocks above us to the rushing waters at our feet

June 22nd Start out early. Road good, some sandy, plenty of water, but strongly impregnated with alkali. Dead oxen, mules, and horses strewn along the way that have died of it. Travel 18 mi. and camp at base of a craggy, rocky mountain beside Sweet Water which takes its name from the brackish and sweet taste the alkali produces. I think it is very unwholesome. Our hand and feet were certainly chapped and very sore while we used it.

June 23rd Grass scarce, owing to the alkali. At the river at noon while a thunder shower approaches, but does not reach us. We are now in the Rocky Mountains, and yet are not aware of our being so high our ascent has been so gradual. These mountains are formed of huge rock piled one over another forming great mountains with scarcely any soil although scrubby vins are growing in the crevices, between each mountain is a small plain through which our road twists is way, along which grass grows, sagebrush and flowers. Afternoon cross the river 3 times in 1 mile, making 20 miles. Camp on the river with good grass over the river. The Wind River Mountains are far to the right which are white with snow. The clouds far below them.

June 24th Cold as Greenland. Overcoats, cloaks, and blankets are in demand. Go 17 miles turn to the right 1 mile from road and camp. Excellent grass, plenty of dry sagebrush for fuel. Mountain or brunch grass looks like timothy– very rich.

June 25th Still colder as we ascend the mountain. Some ice this morning, but probably 85 or 90 in the afternoon. Road rough all day. Go into camp at 3 o'clock. A ranch and telegraph office.

June 26th Sunday. By most the day is spent as usual in hunting, washing, etc. A few of us have S.S. in our tent which was pleasant. Sang as usual "Rest for the Weary".

June 27th Cool but pleasant. Leave Sweet Water to the left. Road full of small round stones travel very slow. 6 miles–Soap Suds Lake, which is a large basin of water-alkali. Noon at a small mountain stream which is pure snow water very cold. 1 mile further found J.D. Jones and others prospecting on Willow Creek. Capt. ordered a halt that we might all see the precious dust washed out. Men, women and children hastened to the spot with pans, buckets, shovels, picks, knives and e very available thing to was gold. Spent the afternoon, returned to camp, satisfied with gold digging.

June 28th Rained last night, cold this morning. 11 0'clock reached Landers Cut-off which we take, bearing to right. 8 miles further, camp on a small stream where 2 other trains were resting until large trains came up. We are near Freeman's Peak. Takes its name from the fact G. Freeman explored it. Is 11,000 ft. above the level of the sea, covered with snow.

June 29th – 30th Thermometer below freezing point. Good road over a long ridge– 18 miles and camp on the head water of Sweet Water. Food, grass, buffalo, clover, with dry willow for wood. Cross the "Summit" the diving line between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The water is now running west. We being so high the air is so pure– or has such a large proportion of oxygen that it is with difficulty that we get enough to inflate our lungs. Cross little Sandy, then through deep sand to Sandy Slough and camp.

July 1st Go 15 miles to Green River– wait til morning for the river to fall. The snow in the mountains melts through day, swelling the river at night, but in the morning is fordable. No snow melts through the night. Caught some fish here.

July 2nd Blocked up our wagon beds and in 2 hours was safely over. Then 8 miles –to the 2nd ford. Blocked up again, crossed and dinnered on its banks. Then 12 miles– muddy creek, plenty of grass and willow rush, but it was too dark to find it. We all fasted until morning, which only made us relish our breakfast.

July 3rd Sunday again. go 10 miles to Duck Creek where is good water and wood (or rather brush). Laid over for the day. Night, quite a sensation produced in camp on the reception of a new baby and a "Hygiene" at that. The lady wore the short dress, ate graham bread, etc, and of course need of a great ado about it.

July 4th Laid over to celebrate the 4ath and the "Baby". While thousands crowd every city, village, and country – midst the roaring of cannon and tumult of voices of brave and free men, who today celebrate the glorious 4th under the stars and stripes of their once happy land, we, a little band far from home and friends in the desert wild, quietly remember this "anniversary day", but as the day advances, some manifestation must be exhibited. A hunting excursion is announced. Others prefer to sit quietly and angle beside the stream and think of the past. While home occupies a very prominent place in their minds, the children, too, must have a good time, so they are having a picnic in a bower which they have made of willows. The stars and stripes are floating over them while they are spreading out their good things in the form of small crackers, pies and cakes. While a few of us keep tent and scratch a few item, but the proud young father and mother's attention is entirely taken with that baby. Night. 2 more trains come in – the hunting party returns, so a salute must be fired. Every man (except a very few copperheads) with gun and pistol paraded in front of our camp. Then 3 loud cheers was give for "Our Country", "The soldiers in the field", etc. midst a roaring of hundreds of "little guns". Thus passed the 4th.

July 5th Still in camp waiting for marching orders, but as none came, some of us strolled out for gooseberries, notwithstanding the Indians. Gathered 1 gallon each.

July 6th Our party separates, we go on with 12 wagons, leaving 8, going 5 miles through a marshy bottom, then turn into a 12 mile canyon. The commencement of the Bear River mountains. Afternoon, an axle of a wagon is broken. Camped – and made an axle. Plenty of berries.

July 7th Still going into the canyon which has a creek which we cross and recross all day, the canyon being so narrow with the steep cliffs on either side. Got through in afternoon and found ourselves in the mountains, surrounded with tall pines 75 or 80 ft. high – not larger at the root than a man's thigh , and growing g so closely together as to darken the road. The farther up we go, the larger and higher the trees. Pass an old abandoned fort, then a lonely grave – a mother. Oh! How sad must that father and husband have been when he buried his dear wife in that dark and lonely spot– left to the haunts of the savages and wild beasts. A rough foaling enclosed the grave over which was left her accustomed chair with name, age, etc. cut into the posts of the foaling. Steep, rough road for 5 miles then enter another canyon. Not so narrow as before. Here another wagon gave way, which detain us for that day. Had gooseberry pie for supper.

July 8th Start early, commence climbing heavy hills – or rather mountains. Road overhung with tall pines, fir and cedar. Up one mountain around the slope into a canyon and the same thing repeated is all that can be said. On the tops of the mountain we look down into deep canyons which are darkened with evergreens in every canyon. The clean cold snow water came rushing down mountain sides, just in sufficient quantity to quench the thirsts of exhausted men and beasts. Saw some Indians on the top of one of these high mountains but they seemed afraid of us. NO grass, but we had some "chop" for our horses and mules. Camped in a canyon – making 16 miles.

July 9th Out early, push on as fast as possible and get over about 9 o'clock. Came down the canyon into a valley which our guide calls Independence Valley, through which runs a creek, good grass – wood – gooseberries and strawberries, roses and hollyhocks. 10 o'clock, start again, go about 8 miles and camp in big meadow on the same creek. The best grass I ever saw. Our tame meadows could not excel it. Abundance of fish in stream.

July 10th Sunday. Travel til noon and rest for the day in the big meadow which is about 20 miles long and 5 wide. Ice freezes every night 3/4 inches thickness.

July 11th Go up another 20 mile canyon – 7 miles came to salt springs. Acres of ground were covered with a beautiful quality of salt. Beds of salt from 1 to 2 fee deep. We carved off specimens, saw a few Indians. 6 o'clock camp at the western base of the B. mountains. Good grass, wood and water near camp. Still freezing at night.

July 12th Wait this morning to make a wagon tongue. Start at 10 – 6 miles and noon at Cold Springs. Country very rough – hills and ravines. Pass big lake, a singular looking place. Looked for a "grizzly" but none made its appearance. Camp at small creek. There met Rev. Hungate, a Baptist missionary to Oregon, sent out by the H.M. Society. He will travel with us. Road today very good.

July 13th After going a short distance, fund large quantities of fish in a small stream. All went out with line and blankets, gunny sacks, and every conceivable thing that would draw a fish out. Caught 2 or 3 bus. Of small ones and went on to Black Foot River. Nooned – here the juncture of Ft. Bridges and East Hannock road. A ranch – 6 miles and recrossed the river. 8 miles further and camped on the S. side of same. Plenty of good grass. Weather growing warmer.

July 14th Good roads. Noon at large spring at the mouth of the canyon. A large spring – water not too good. Large quantities of currants – yellow, black and red. Gathered bushels of them. Not too good.

July 15th Travel 9 or 10 miles down a small stream, on which grow some gooseberries and service berries. Afternoon go over a dry sandy waste to Snake River and camp. Indians herding ponies.

July 16th Move 1 mile down to the ferry. A ranch and some Indian wigwams. Sold them flour for $20.00. $3.00 toll per wagon, 40 cents each for loose stock. This is the largest river since leaving the Missouri. Thence 3 miles down the river to a spring bursting from a rock which yields abundance of water for all our stock. 9 miles farther another spring much larger than before. Rest here. Sold our ox wagon and cattle. This place is 4 miles from Ft. Hall, which I believe is on the river at another crossing. Some of our party stop here, where commences the "dry desert".

July 17th 2 wagons, besides ours, venture out on the 33 miles stretch. A barren waste without wood, water or grass. A few sagebrush occasionally. Pushed on as fast as possible. Stopped at noon to refresh our horses by giving them a small amount of corn meal and flour and 1 gal. each of water which we carried in our kegs. Then pushed on to the "Butte" where the spring is. We seemed to be within 5 or 6 miles, but proved to be 16. Reached it at dark when a search was made for the spring which we finally found 1 mile up a canyon. It gushes from the Butte, then sank with in a few rods. We could not drive to it, so narrow was the passage. Unhitched, took our horses and kegs for water. Then going in search of grass for our hungry horses – finally found some bunches of dry grass. Stopped to rest, but not to sleep. There were a number of suspicious looking men at the spring which we watched by turn. They proved to be miners returning home.

July 18th The beautiful moonlight night passed away and the little company are safe. Return to the spring for water, then go 12 miles to Lost River which rises and sinks again a number of times. There are several buttes in the plain. The surrounding country has the appearance of once having been a volcanic region. Large heaps of black rocks made up the scenery in the forenoon. Afternoon, rest at Lost River which is nearly dry – only standing in puddles. Some grass. Saw here some sage hens.

July 19th Start out at 8. Another barren 25 miles of road as yesterday – melted rock or lava looking like sone, coal cinders piled up in all manner of shapes and sizes. Were doubtless thrown from these "Buttes". Reached the water at sundown. A spring running down a steep mountain – very cold. Snow on the mountains, yet the thermometer 85 in the valley. Good grass on sides of the mountain.

July 20th a large train comes in at daybreak, having traveled all night – being so much easier on cattle to make a t rip at night. At 7 o'clock we start out, leaving the large train resting. The land is so filled with lava that we go around the base of a mountain which is the worst road that we have found yet. Climbing mountains, descending very steep places, crossing craggy ditches over beds of rocks which we feared would break our wagon. All along the road were pieces of axles, tongues, spokes, etc. Plenty of good water and some grass. Got through 3 or 4 miles through a green valley and camped on a creek where was plenty of excellent grass and water. Our small party lay down and slept quietly.

July 21st Road good – everything pleasant again. Kill some sage hens. Camp at a mountain base.

July 22nd Met a drove of horses yesterday, with 4 savage looking men. This morning meet 4 men in hot pursuit. The horses had been stolen at S. Boise. We now enter Cambras Prairie 50 or 60 miles in length. Indians with droves of ponies grazing on the prairie. Noon at Wood River, but little grass owning to its being a general camp. Camp by mt. stream.

July 23rd Good roads and the best of grass and water. 2 o'clock reach a creek were a number of teams are resting. Stop until tomorrow noon. Night – Rev. Hungate preached in the wilderness beside a large camp fire to 15 or 20 persons, but we were assured that Jehovah dwelleth not alone in the temples made with hands. He is a man of talent, not much zeal.

July 24th By noon – start out with 3 other families who are bound for Oregon. Road still goos. 12 or 15 miles and camp on quaking ash grove near creek. Rained at night, pleased us.

July 25th A number of Indians came into camp today. Watch them closely. Tried to steal "Fanny", our mare. The whole surface is covered with black crickets or locusts. Afternoon, enter little Cambras Prairie. A number of farmers making hay have number of wagons.

July 26th Raining. More hilly roads, plenty of good water. Afternoon, go up a very steep hill1 mile to its top. Come down in a canyon where is a ranch and camp, a number of packers and miners. We placed out a guard tonight. 2 o'clock at night, Mr. L hailed a man who was sneaking around not suspecting a guard and on finding same "skedaddled" in a hurry. Good grass on the side of the mountain.

July 27th Saw an "expressman" who gave us a copy of the Boise City News. A very hard road this forenoon. Mostly downgrade this afternoon. Came to "Massacre Creek", where a train of immigrants were murdered here by the Indians, which gave it its name. Thence down the creek and to the junction of Salt Lake Road. A ranch, a number of teams resting. Thence 3 miles to a small spring where men were making hay. Camped.

July 28th Ranches at every watering place. Stop at noon at Squaw creek. Here our party s topped to wash and straighten up. Was a Rancho kept my a Mr. Davidson, formerly a M.E. minister, but was rather rebellious at this time. Gave him some "tracts" which he was very thankful for. Bought vegetables, potatoes 50 cents per lb., onion, $1.00, turnips 30 cents.

July 29th 18 miles to Boise River. Very low – forded it. It is continually muddy, in consequence. Mining, wheat, oats and hat raised here.

July 30th 2 miles to Boise City, a new but stirring place. Some of our party stopped here and sold flour for $15.00 in gold. Did not stay long in the city of Gold. 8 miles and camped on dry creek.

July 31st Grass very scarce, being so near the town. Have to violate the Sabbath again. Go to 12 mile creek, expecting to stop, but found neither grass or water. The next point was the Payette River which we reached at sundown. It is a clear pretty stream fordable at this season.

Aug. 1st Rest until noon. Very warm. Grass drying. The valley is being settled, large field of hay. Will not produce grain without irrigation. Met large droves of pack animals with sacks, kegs, and large government wagons drawn by 6 yokes of oxen and 6 mules.

Aug. 2nd Still going down the river – very dusty. The country is filled with a class of desperadoes. Cross the river 6 miles and camp. Very Warm. Mosquitoes bad. Grass scarce owing to the large pack train. Meet a circus going to try their luck in the city of gold.

Aug. 3rd Start at 9 o'clock, traveling on stage line and can get news occasionally. Reach Snake River again, it being such a crooked stream that our road crosses it twice.. Go down it 30 miles before crossing. Camp at night at Ranch kept by Mr. Poindexter. Pasture our horses for 15 cents each.

Aug. 4th Very good roads. Valley thickly settled. Along the river, grass very scarce. Cloth and cool.

Aug. 5th Cloudy and cool. Start early. 7 miles reach the ferry. Toll $2.00 per wagon in gold or $4.00 in greenbacks. This river which wind through deep canyons, barely enough room for a road. Good mountain grass on the steep cliffs. But it is difficult to get to it. Our men take blankets and sleep on the mountains with their horses.

Aug. 6th Camped at spring. Quite cool. Go 1 mile and give $1.00 for rolling down a steep hill, which some men have graded, claiming a charter to "toll". Road very rough 9 or 10 miles. Noon on a small stream. Have to take our horses 2 miles to grass. Afternoon, leave the river 6 miles to a stage station and camp. Some men are mining in this place, making 5 or 6 dollars a day.

Aug. 7th Start at 7. 9 or 10 miles and again reach river. Rev. Hungate preached tonite in a ranch.

Aug. 8th Cool and pleasant. Ranches every few miles. Garden irrigated. Camp at a small spring at the left of the road. Here was one of our dark spots. Night closing on us in a sandy bottom, without grass or wood and only a mud puddle for water.

Aug. 9th Start at sunrise. 12 miles across this barren to Powder River slough and water and grass. 11 miles further to Ward's Ranch on same slough, and rest for the day. A very pleasant place which made up for the dark last night. Ward keeps a first class Hotel for this country. Is an intimate acquaintance of L & H (Lafayette and Hiram) Loughary. Night – a thunderstorm – blew terrible.

Aug.10th Pleasant again. Very cool as we are nearing the range of Blue Mountains which are in sight. Travel down Powder River. Good road and grass. It is a small stream, muddy a duck puddle, owing to the mining on it. Camp on a creek – good water, grass and wood.

Aug. 11th Ice froze last night. Good roads, rolling but smooth. Afternoon, reach Grande Ronde valley at the eastern base of the Blue Mountains. A nice fertile place, thickly inhabitated. Gardens, farms, wheat, oats, and hay in abundance. Springs of clear cold water gushing from the mountain side every ½ mile. One mile up the valley is new and flourishing La Grande – contains about 300 inhabitants. A meeting house.

Aug. 12th Start at noon, climbing a very steep hill, taking the old Immigrant Road. Should have taken the "Daily" road. After winding around the hills and up canyons, came down to Grand Ronde River and camped. No grass. Again in heavy spruce, fir & pine.

Aug. 13th Out early. 1 mile up a branch find green grass and s top for a day. A steep cliff 4 or 5 hundred ft. high, added to this are tall fir trees 100 ft.. Also in the valley the valley the trees were very large, shutting out the sun, making it a beautiful retired spot.

Aug. 14th This was a nice place to leave on the Sabbath. But when we are in Rome we must do as Rome Does. I was forcibly reminded of the usual Sabbath stillness, when instead of starting on a journey, we went to the house of worship. Our road wound through deep ravines and over high mountains covered with beautiful fir, cedar, and laurel which darkened the road with their green foliage. Noon at the top of the Blue Mts. Towards night there was a cry of "Huckleberries" which we all gladly responded to by leaping from the wagons – bounding through the bushes like savages – filling pails, aprons, skirts, and bonnets with the blackened bushes. Camped at Lee's encampment, a beautiful mountain home, but shut our entirely by the balance of mankind. But many a dollar he gleans from the weary traveler. The wolf, wildcat, panther, and bear kept up a hideous yelling all night long. Grass is very scarce. The grass on the mountain is not good.

Aug. 15th Start at Sunrise. Road down grade all day. We here lay in wood for the next 6 or 8 days. At 3 o'clock reach Umatilla Valley which is an Indian reservation. They till the soil. Some of them are quite wealthy. A government agent lives with them. Bought potatoes very cheap.

Aug. 16th Have our horses 2 miles from the road for grass. Do not start until 9. Go down the river about 12 miles, cross then 7 miles and camp on its banks. Plenty of grass, wood and water.

Aug. 17th We wished to take the Birch Creek Road, but after wandering around until 12 o'clock found ourselves at the camp of the previous night. Then resuming the Old Immigrant Road went 18 miles over a dry sandy ridge to the Umatilla again. Then had to take our stock 2 miles on up the hill. Our men as usual after supper took their dogs, blankets, and guns and sleep on the mountain with the stock. Plenty of vegetables.

Aug. 18th Have to make another dry stretch of 15 miles to Butter Creek, which is well night dry, with grass very scarce. No wood except what we buy from the ranchers.

Aug. 19th Another 18 mile dry stretch is announced the morning. Our road is through rolling sand hills, plenty of dry grass which is very rich, but without water is comparative useless. Reach the "well spring" at 4 o'clock. This is a small oasis in the middle of a great waste. Have large number of teams and pack trains. Can buy oats, wood, mild, etc.

Aug. 20th Move on to the next watering place which is 14 miles distant. Road sandy, no green vegetation except an occasional scrubby cedar or greasewood. Reach Willow Creek in the afternoon. Can hire pasture for 25 cents ea or take them to miles up the mountain. Can get fuel – dry willows. Night wind blew the sand so terribly that cooking was almost impossible. Quite cold as we are nearing the Cascades.

Aug 21st Sunday. Would like to rest but the scarcity of wood and grass forbids it. Our road still sandy, but more level. Reach Rock Creek at sundown, making 18 miles. Plenty

Aug. 22nd of grass, wood and water. So we substitute Monday for Sunday and rest. Bought very nice potatoes and onions from ranchers. Indians brought in fish and melons to exchange for flour, bacon, etc. Water strongly impregnated with lime, etc.

Aug. 23rd Start out again after laying in another supply of wood. 4 miles up the creek to John Day River which is quite a stream, but is now fordable. 3 dwellings, a blacksmith shop, etc. After crossing the river, go up a long graded hill 3 miles to the top. Here our party separate. The right hand road to the Dalles, and left, the Old Immigrant Road across the Cascade Mountains. The sands was driving so badly that we all went 2 miles to the left of the road into a deep canyon where was a small spring, and laid over and had to stake down our wagons an go to bed supperless. Some of our party did attempt to get supper but as sand is not very nutritious, we fasted.

Aug. 24th This morning our party separated – all going over the mountain except our wagon. Very good roads, mostly green water more frequent. Ranches at every water spot. Can buy plenty of vegetables and fresh beef. 17 miles and camp at the head of a canyon. Excellent grass and water. This is the first night that we camped alone since leaving Iowa.

Aug. 25th Go down the canyon 3 miles to the Deschutes. Has a splendid bridge. Toll for our wagon and horses was $1.60 gold or its equivalent in Greenbacks. Then up the steepest hill of the route – 1 mile in length, or rather height 4 miles to 12 mile creek where are several farms, on one an orchard, oats, corn, potatoes, melons, etc. Bought some beef and onions. Springs, gushing from the steel hill sides quite frequently. Camp 6 miles from The Dalles.

Aug. 26th Will remain here today while Mr. L. goes to The Dalles to ascertain the fare to Portland and to meet H. (Hiram) Loughary, who is expected to meet us here. Afternoon, Mr. L. returned. H.L. did not arrive. We will remain 1 or 2 days longer.

Aug. 27th Still in camp, our horses resting. Grass dry, but rich.

Aug. 28th Move down to town at noon. Cross the railroad 2 miles from town. It is a portage around the upper falls of the Columbia. The sight of a railroad once more carried us back to our old home. The Dalles is a stirring business place. The steamer leaves daily at 5 o'clock A.M. and arrives at 5 P.M. , except Sundays.

Aug. 29th Remain in town today. Will ship tomorrow. Had an opportunity of seeing the town. A fort with Cl. volunteers at this place. 3 meeting houses, and a good school.

Aug. 30th At 4 o'clock waiting for the tap of the steamer bell. It "taps" and we drive on board. The fare is $14.00 per wagon, $5.00 for each horse, $6.00 each adult and children free. We succeeded, however in getting a ticket for $40.00. The scenery down the river is said to be the most magnificent of the Pacific Coast. The day was so stormy that I was compelled to remain in the cabin most of the day and was deprived of seeing all. The river at The Dalles is a quite narrow channel, but it deepens and widens as we go farther down it. 40 miles from the Dalles is the Cascade Locks. Here we take the cars and go 5 miles of portage. A gentleman told us to occupy a seat on the south side of the care that we might have an opportunity of seeing the falls and we had no more time to look at passengers – such was the grandeur of the falls. The road runs along the bank and at a point is cut through rocks, overhung with evergreens and other beautiful scenery and shrubbery. A large stone had rolled in the track which took some time to remove, but all the better for us who wished to gaze upon nature's works. Cascade Station was finally announced where we were again transferred to a steamer that was just landing. Here we met H. (Hiram) Loughary who had failed to get our letters in time to get farther. Afternoon, the scenery is beyond the description of my pen. The banks of both sides are almost entirely solid rock, mostly perpendicular for several hundred feet and so smooth as to look like solid masonry. On the tops of these are fir and cedar. Springs gush out and pour over the precipice forming a spray. At intervals a low green spot where there was a farm, garden, orchard, etc. Several high towers rise out of the river. Some solid stone looking like monuments of art, others have a little soil and are covered with cedars. At 3 o'clock touches at Vancouver, in Washington, the oldest place on the Pacific Coast. An old looking Soldiers barracks-most of Oregon Vol. – are here. The river at this point is something like the Mississippi in Burlington. Banks become more level. A few miles and we turn into the Willamette River, run up 12 miles to Portland. The river up to Portland is mostly tide water. Small ships run up with the tide. Several steamer in port, but none of the "ship" kind. The city is built principally of low wooden houses. Has a good wharf. The fist attractable things was the different Omnibuses calling for passengers for the Temperance House, etc. We informed them that we drove our own omnibus and slept in our own hotel. Bought some hay for our horses, some bread and butter for supper and slept in our wagons as usual.

Sept 1st Remain in Portland until noon, rambling over city seeing what we cold see, etc. Saw J. De Lashmutt, formerly of Des Moines County Iowa, who invited us to go up to his house and rest for a few days. Visited the fruit stores, and such fruit! Start up the valley, or rather over the Ochaco mountains 10 miles and camp.

Sept 2nd Thus far our road has been through deep forests of fir. Afternoon – we now are in the valley proper which is composed of hills of high land, lowland, and valley on both sides of the Willamette River, interspersed with streams, b rooks, and springs, along which are Ash, Maple, Alder, etc. On the hills oak, mountain - fir.

Sept 3rd Reach L. (Lafayette) Loughary in the Luckiamute valley of the Willamette Valley, 65 miles south of Portland.



 



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