Traveling with Jack and Theresa

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Fat Rascal

Heathrow

Coach House

Yorkshire Notes

Organizing Labor

Circle of Friends

Bank Holiday

Harrogate Note

TuesLet

Living In Sin

Harrogate History

Dales Day

Tueslet Two

Wensleydale and Dr. Watson

Ah! London

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Fat Rascals at Bettys

HARROGATE HISTORY

  Fashionable Society... the Harrogate Season came between the end of the London Season and the Grouse-Shooting Season in the early Autumn in Yorkshire and Scotland.

     Greetings on a bright clouds day in Harrogate. The Brits have more ways of reporting it's raining than the Eskimos have saying it’s snowing. The Times covers the range of weather with 11 icons. I can't reproduce them here, but they are labeled: Sunny, Sunny intervals, Cloudy, Drizzle, Overcast, Rain, Sunny showers, Sleet, Lightning, Hail, and Snow. There is one icon selected per day. Because the weather is so changing on the island, probably they simply pick what they hope will be an average. Today, the average in Yorkshire is Sunny showers. That's safe.

It's the Water, You know.

     Yesterday we decided to walk in parts of Harrogate we have not explored and continued to be amazed with what we discover. We started the day at the Pump Room Museum and relived the hey days of the Victorian Era when Harrogate was the place to come for "the waters." The century old sign in the museum said, "For fashionable society, the Harrogate Season came between the end of the London Season and Grouse-Shooting Season in the early autumn in Yorkshire and Scotland." It appears the well-to-do had parties galore in London and then came to Harrogate to slim down by drinking and bathing in the god awful water. There was a prescribed schedule for every day which began at 7:00 a.m. with, "Run and visit Pump Room for first tumbler of water." The morning was filled with walking about, resting, listening to the band, resting, morning paper and letters, resting, and running for several more tumblers of water.

    Lunch was at noon, and the afternoon was pretty much a repeat of the morning. Evenings were on your own, except for several prescribed tumblers of the water.


     Also noted with great pleasure yesterday was another city park named Valley Gardens, beautiful, and in full array of rhodies. The sign upon entering the park reads, "There is a poop scoop scheme in operation in this area. Dog owners are requested to keep their dogs on a lead and use the red bins provided." Well, that's the news fit to print from Harrogate today. Let's see if Loughary wants to add anything.

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Water, Tea or Gin?

     Harrogate, first records about 1100, came into some fame in the 1600s when smelly mineral water wells were discovered. (Smelly Wells was the name of the woman who discovered the waters, but according to the scant records existing, she soon evaporated.) About 80 wells were operating at the peak of the spas in Harrogate. Spa is the name of an ancient mineral water watering place in Belgium (you will now remember that bit of trivia every time you read spa) and the name was picked up by the Harrogate Chamber of Commerce as a means of publicizing the town's main attraction. Harrogate grew in the 1700 and 1800's to a very popular resort area. People came for the water, but stayed for the booze, parties and, one can only assume, sex. It has had its ups and downs but two features kept it pure. One, in the early 1800s the King or one of his delegates set aside 200 acres in Harrogate for the people's use. The land exists as a large lawn today within the town limits of Harrogate and is known as the "Stray” or “Two Hundred Acres". Locals walk and sit on it and, students do their physical education there, and occasionally the wantabe young toughs from neighboring towns play football there. The Stray is such an overwhelming feature of this small town, that it continually reminds people, to the frustration of real estate developers I imagine, not to mess with a good thing.


     The second purifying feature of Harrogate is what one writer refers to as the, "Whatever it is, I'm against it Society." Harrogate has a charter chapter, which means that even the most minor change is talked up one side and down the other of the Park Fountain before being accepted (or rejected.). It has always been this way in Harrogate. As a consequence, conservatism reigns, and so there are no poor people in Harrogate. They are not allowed. At least not enough to form an organization. It is, therefor, a squeaky clean, pristine town.


     Still a retreat town for the historically rich but not ostentatious, it is no longer about spas or sports. I think people come to Harrogate to be looked after and to check out Bettys. Bettys was founded in 1902 or thereabouts by a Belgium immigrant. The basic rule, according to the brochure, is "everything fresh".

Early Mass Transit

    Some one asked for a description of the merchandise. Imagine standing in front of Bettys, which is located on the corner of Parliament Street (the main drag) and Montpelier Park. The front facade is very busy Victorian featuring display windows on the sidewalks of both streets. The window display feature mostly breads and breakfast pastries and are accessible by the counter women who work in front of them on one side, and behind the inside display shelves (mostly dessert pastry) on the other. I stopped by this morning to take inventory.


     The available breads included: multi grain (my favorite), cheese (3 kinds), dried tomato, soda, wheat, rye, museli, Irish, and 4 or 5 more. Regarding desserts, strawberries are still in season and they are served in several kinds of pastry, with or without cream and icing, with or without other fruit, such as kiwis and pear and apple, in or out of rich syrup. There are also probably a dozen different kinds scones, curds, and tarts. Walnut is my favorite, and I get an INDIVIDUAL WALNUT PIE about every other day. Or, I can get you a cherry, banana, almond or mixed fruit and nut number in about any kind of pastry base your heart desires. Of course, they have all varieties of standard cakes and pies (fresh every day, of which they are open all except Christmas). Then there is the "Fat Rascal". It is your basic survival pastry. I don't go anywhere, and I mean anywhere, without a couple Fat Rascals in my pack. After the US pilot survival story in Bosnia, I have recommended to the USAF that it include instant FRs in survival packets.


     Today began sunny and medium and has turned to cloudy and cool. We will soon have done our email chores, and written what was planned. The problem then will be how to get through the rest of day comfortably. And that looks like a job for Bettys and a couple Fat Rascals!


© 2014 Theresa Ripley